Browsing Tag: toy trains

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    UNBOXING! Super Fun BRIO Metro Railway Set! Off to work on the Train Lab!

    September 11, 2019


    – [Man] When’s the next
    metro train coming in? – [Eric] Chugga-chugga-choo-choo! Chugga-chugga-choo-choo! Chugga-chugga-choo-choo! Chugga-chugga-choo-choo! Yay! (baby babble) – [Man] Door’s opening! (train whistle blows) – Train Lab! – [Man] Hey guys! We’re
    gonna do another surprise for Eric and Cody since
    we love Brio so much! This is the Metro Rail Set, and this is the coolest! It’s part of the Brio world set… Eric, Cody! – [Eric] Yeah! – [Cody] Yay! – [Man] What is it? – [Eric] The Brio Metro Train! – [Man] Whoa! We’ve
    been looking at that one for awhile
    haven’t we? – [Eric] Yeah! Yeah! Yeah! Let’s open it! – [Man] Whoa! Where should we put it? Like right here? I think
    we’ve got a space for it – [Eric] Look what it comes with! It comes with all of this!
    So much! – [Man] Looks like 20 pieces, of like all the metro pieces… – [Eric] Yeah! – [Man] Is it battery operated too? – [Eric] No… – [Man] I think it is battery-operated. – [Eric] No it’s not – [Man] I think it is!
    It says on the outside of it. Oh! And there’s the beautiful brochure that really really likes Daddy’s wallet! (ringing) Look at that! There’s a
    couple of cool trains, oh we already have one
    of those tunnels too! And that’s the subway station? – [Eric] Where’s the Subway Station? – [Man] It’s in there! – [Eric] Is this the subway? – [Man] Yeah! It looks
    like the subway station – [Eric] I’ll get the subway out.. – [Man] Wow! That’s… – [Eric] Subway! – [Man] Wow I love that subway! – [Eric] Watch this! – [Man] Wow! The doors
    come open and closed too!? – [Eric] Yes!
    And look on the inside… – [Man] (awing) – [Eric] These little things… – [Man] Metro Maps… – [Eric] Ooh what is this? – [Man] – Couple of seats… – [Eric] What is this? – [Man] Looks like it’s the rail map. (high pitched) Ah! I’m going on holiday! – [Cody] And it comes with a suitcase! – [Man] Whoa! That’s so cool! He’s going on a trip! – [Eric] Does this drive? – [Man] It’s battery. – [Eric] The batteries
    are always for the lights – [Man] You think so? – [Eric] Yeah! – [Man] Huh- – [Eric] Because…
    you have to push it around – [Man] You do? – [Eric] Yes. – [Man] That’s sound and what? Sound and lights? – [Man 2] (affirmative) – [Man] Okay it’s sound and lights. What’s the sound? – [Eric] Well I don’t know! – [Man] Does it have some sound? – [Eric] No! – [Man] Hmm… it says it has sound. Let me see. Guess that’s
    where the battery goes. Ahh… (music plays) Where are we gonna put it? I think we’re gonna put
    it right in here huh? Put it right there? Oh! We even have a city
    bus in there! Look at that! So maybe we can put it
    right there and then, that would be a cool place… Can you join it in the tunnel, and then it goes straight out? – [Eric] Sure! – [Man] Oh that would be cool! – [Eric] But now we have two metros! – [Cody] That’s exciting! – [Man] Well this is just the tunnel, that will come into the Metro. – [Eric] Hey! – [Man] Oh that’s cool! – [Eric] Hey how’s about we put this, out this sign right here? – [Man] Whoa! Okay! Cool, so it’s got the metro ticket
    dispenser right there, and…
    metro rail map right there. – [Eric] And they can walk in, and we’ll- – [Cody] How about we put this right here? – [Eric] And wait for the metro. – [Man] When’s the next
    metro train comin in? – [Eric] Chugga-chugga-choo-choo! Chugga-chugga-choo-choo! Chugga-chugga-choo-choo! Chugga-chugga-choo-choo! Yay! – [Man] Doors opening! (whooing & laughter) – [Cody] We need a seat for our suitcase! – [Eric] Oh that goes front car. Need to put that in later. We put that in when the train backs up. First door closing! – [Man] (engine revving)
    Here comes the bus with more passengers! (brakes squeal) – [Cody] We don’t have
    a place for this one! – [Man] (high pitched) Wait for me! Wait for me! Wait for me! Oh! You’re filled up!
    Okay! I’ll go for the next one…
    Oh! You do have an extra train! – [Eric] (giggles) Yeah! – [Man] Yay! Come on in! – [Cody] We’re busy over here! – [Man] Oh! You have
    another one? Who can ride? The construction worker
    needs to get to work. Here he comes! – [Eric] The construction worker doesn’t need to come. – [Man] Yeah! Cause he needs to get to the Gantry crane area to drive his forklift. – [Eric] Wow! This is
    becoming a long train. – [Man] Whoa! It’s the morning rush hour. – [Eric] (mimics train chugging) – [Man] Boy! That’s a long
    early morning metro train – [Eric] Yes! – [Man] Wow! Everybody
    needs to get to work. – [Cody] Sir, get back here. – [Man] Uh oh… might be too long. – [Eric] It can’t. – [Man] Over to the ferry! Might have to take a couple at a time huh? (music playing) – [Eric] Might be… this person is actually too tall! – [Man] He is?
    Oh !I guess he is! Look at that. – [Eric] Oh that’s the end. Can’t hold any… – [Man] Okay go across the ferry. (ferry horn blows) – [Cody] We do it again? – [Man] Here we go! (boy mimics train) – [Eric] Oh the switch is wrong! We want to go this way!
    It sure is a long train! – [Man] Everybody is going to work… A bear who cares… A noob in a suit. – [Eric] Chugga-chugga-choo-choo! Chugga-chugga-choo-choo! Rolling into the station! – [Man] Look! We’ve got everybody waiting to get loaded up! (screeching) – Okay let the people get off… Stopped at the work site, hauling all that load for the day! Lots of customers with lots of loads! – [Eric] This guys riding the gentry, this guy getting the forklift. – [Man] Cool (engine whirring) – [Eric] This guys not driving – [Man] Okay! I’m ready for a load! Looks like the ships almost unloaded! There we go! See you later!
    Going for another load! (mimics boat horn) – [Eric] Hey there guys!
    Come on, hop in! – [Man] Is it lunch time already? – [Eric] Yes! – [Man] Oh! Okay! I’m off! Beep!
    I’m off! (engine whirring) – [Cody] (train sound effects) – [Eric] Well I’m heading
    back from the metro. Because the big long
    train is getting ready. And now the driver’s are gonna switch. – [Man] Okay – [Eric] Train ways – [Man] Did you have a
    good time with Brio today? – [Eric] Yes. – [Man] How about you Cody? – [Cody] Yes! – [Man] We love Brio! – [Eric] We love Brio! – [Man] We love Brio. – [Eric] Yeah! Too much! (laughter) – [Man] See you later!
    Everybody’s going home. (train whistle) – TrainLab!

    Lots & Lots of Trains for Kids | Steam and Diesel Trains in Action | DVD Gift | James Coffey
    Articles, Blog

    Lots & Lots of Trains for Kids | Steam and Diesel Trains in Action | DVD Gift | James Coffey

    September 9, 2019


    Through The Night, To The Early Sunrise, Travelin’ Along On Those Railroad Ties Through The Gentle Hills And The Western Skies I See Lots And Lots Of Trains Through The Tunnels, By The Ocean Shore Listen To That Those Diesel Engines Roar From Birmingham To Baltimore I See Lots And Lots Of Trains Lots And Lots Of Trains Comin’ Round The Bend And Headed Down The Track Lots And Lots Of Trains Comin’ Round The Bend And Headed Down The Track I Love To Listen To The Sound Of That Clickity-Clack See The Sights And Hear The Sounds By The Cities & Through The Towns From The Morning Sunrise ‘Til The Sun Goes Down I See Lots And Lots Of Trains Day Or Night, Rain Or Shine Passing By The Houses And The Railway Signs Over The Mountains And Through The Pines I See Lots And Lots Of Trains Lots And Lots Of Trains Comin’ Round The Bend And Headed Down The Track Lots And Lots Of Trains Comin’ Round The Bend And Headed Down The Track I Love To Listen To The Sound Of That Clickity-Clack And The Smell Of That Smoke Comin’ Out The Stack I’m Gonna Get On Board And I’m Not Comin’ Back Here they come… clickity-clack down the track! It’s Lots and Lots of Trains! Two of the greatest train videos we’ve ever offered! And now through this special TV offer you get 2 videos for the price of one! You’ll get big trains, little trains, steam trains, diesel, freight, and passenger trains. Even trains that blow through snow! Old trains, new trains, fast trains, slow trains, smokin’ trains, even trains from around the world! Plus toy trains, trolley trains, and much, much more! When you order Lots and Lots of Trains! Hear the whistle blow, feel the heat, smell the smoke as these titans of the tracks thunder on by. You’ll love Lots and Lots of Trains! And remember, this spectacular two tape set is not available in stores! So hop onboard and get 2 great tapes for one great price! Get Lots and Lots of Trains! Order now get a free bonus CD of sing-along train songs. Call 1-888-300-3455 offer not available in stores. Satisfaction Guaranteed. Get 2 DVDs plus the free CD call 1-888-300-3455! Captions by GetTranscribed.com

    Epic Race! Chuggington Action Chugger and Shinkansen race for the fastest train in the world!
    Articles, Blog

    Epic Race! Chuggington Action Chugger and Shinkansen race for the fastest train in the world!

    September 6, 2019


    [Eric} Go! [Dad] oh! It’s head-to-head! TrainLab [Dad] Woah! What’s going on guys? [Eric] We’re having a race! [Dad] What kind of a race? [Eric] Do you see all the engines we have around? Those are the engines we’re going to be racing. And the Shinkansen! [Dad] And Action Chugger! Racing to see who really is the fastest train in the world. [Dad] And I’ve got Action Chugger ready to go over here. Okay ready, set… [Eric] GO! GO! Okay Action Chugger is off! [Dad] The Shinkansen? What’s going on with the Shinkansen? he’s paused. Oh,
    Action Chugger is catching up! He’s catching up! [Dad] Maybe Action Chugger is faster than Shinkansen… [Eric] The Shinkansen is still not being hit. [Dad] Yeah, but Action Chugger is going to catch him quick! Oh noooo! Ohhh! Action Chugger pushes the Shinkansen off the track. [Dad] And the first round goes to Action Chugger! [Dad] So, to even up the playing field, Shinkansen has a brand new set of batteries. He’s looking pretty fast… and Action Chugger is going to have his cars on. Oh look at that, Action Chugger is fairly slow now… But the Shinkansen is blazing fast! [Eric giggling] The Shinkansen has new batteries! [Dad] Look how fast that thing is! He’s definitely catching up! Oh my goodness, look at that he’s moving so quick! Oh he’s going to be right behind Action Chugger here! Oh! If he doesn’t… he almost derailed! Can he keep going? Oh no! He derailed! Quick! He needs to be fixed! Action Chugger is going to catch up. Quick! Quick! [Eric laughing] [Dad] Action Chugger is going to catch up! [Eric] Here! [Dad] Oh there we go! Whew! He’s back in action, and catching up! [Eric laughing!] Look at that! Shinkansen is looking like he’s having a bit of a malfunction. Oh! Oh! [Eric laughing!] He’s in his review lights! Oh he caught him! but can he be powerful enough to push Action Chugger? off the rail? I don’t know! [Eric] but he’s coming off the rail! [Dad] Yes he is coming off the rail… He’s fast but he’s light! That’s the problem… Oh! No! [Eric] Again! And Action Chugger wins the round. [Dad] Okay, looks like we have a modification to the track there… [Eric] That’s the finish line [Dad] Looks like we have a big long head-to-head track! Are you ready? [Eric] GO! oh no we have a malfunction at the start [Eric] Go! Look at that… look at that! The Shinkansen! [Eric] GO! Yes! The Shinkansen is the fastest train! [Eric] I wish Action Chugger was the fastest train. [Dad] Oh no! Let’s have another race, best out of three… Were you disappointed Action
    Chugger didn’t win? [Eric] so I’m going to make him go faster! How’s that? What are you gonna do? I’m going to make him go faster by putting new batteries [Dad] Ohhh… Even the score! Alright, let’s do it! [upbeat rock music] We’re going to have the full trains race head-to-head [Eric] Ready… Set… Go! It’s head-to-head! But the Shinkansen is moving ahead! And the Shinkansen wins! [Eric] And crashed! Crashed into the stop. [Dad] It’s the world champion… The Shinkansen train. Alright guys thanks for watching! [Eric] Thumbs up if you like this video! Don’t forget to subscribe! TrainLab

    How To Use A  Breadboard For Your Model Railroad Lighting
    Articles, Blog

    How To Use A Breadboard For Your Model Railroad Lighting

    August 30, 2019


    if you want to light up your model
    railroad and want to see how to get this breadboard assembled so you could do it
    easily you’re gonna want to watch this video right now I’m Tom Kvichak and this
    is Toms Trains and Things this channel was created to help other modelers who
    are in need of guidance in pursuing their dream of building a model railroad
    and we’re going to take this breadboard that I showed you the other day I’m going
    to disassemble everything on here and rearrange it and show you how to do it I
    figured out a different way of doing it when you’re doing a breadboard you’re
    putting the components on there just to test it out and to see how it would work
    and experiment with it but since I have the design of a correct I figured out a
    way to rearrange it on there a little bit better so we have the LED on one
    side of the breadboard and everything else on the other side of the breadboard
    and I also made one for the mini breadboard that doesn’t have a power bus
    along the side on each side of them so I put a little connector on there
    transferring this to a circuit board is a next step after I show you how to put
    it on these little bread boards here now that’ll be another video after this
    showing you how to put it on a circuit board something similar to this where
    you have to put jumpers on the back of it this has holes similar to what’s on
    the breadboard now you can buy circuit boards in different sizes I have I
    bought a pack of circuit boards that have I think one two three four five
    assorted sizes you can also get circuit boards that have the traces that are
    similar to the bands that are on the breadboard now on the breadboard you
    have the power buses on either end you can see how the power bus works and then
    the working area everything is common in that direction
    right there here’s the schematic diagram of what we’re working with I’m going to
    show this battery here as our power source with the plus and the minus right
    here now we have the first resistor here R 1 which is the 680 ohm resistor this
    one right here is the 150 K ohm resistor and this is the the trim pot this is our
    variable resistor this is our q1 it’s a SS 8:05 oh and this is our LED we
    could use any LED we want right there now we’ll go over to what it looks like
    on the breadboard and we’ll see the same thing over here this is r1 which is the
    680 ohm resistor this is the R 2 which is the 150 K ohm resistor and you’ll see
    that they are both connected to the positive terminal there okay now this
    680 as you can see goes all the way up to the anode of the LED which is right
    here okay this resistor right here 150 k ohm
    goes on to one leg of the potentiometer right here right there the center post
    of this one goes up to the transistor the base of the transistor which is
    right here the other leg of the trim pot goes down
    to your negative and it also goes to the emitter of your transistor now on the on
    the actual breadboard that I’m working on I moved it down to these terminals
    right here I’m just showing it right here because
    it’s it’s a little bit clearer like this but I put these two leads the base in
    the emitter right here in here and I put the collector in this one I just bend it
    up to fit over on this one right here but it’s the same thing as coming down
    like this okay and then moving this up to there but anyway that’s what that is
    right there that’s the emitter which comes on to the other side of the
    variable resistor and goes to your negative terminal on your power source
    and then the other side of the transistor which is right here goes up
    to the cathode of your LED right there so that’s the entire wiring diagram in
    there you have two fixed resistors a variable resistor a transistor and an
    LED and that’s what it looks like here I’m going to I’m just showing you one
    instance of it but when we do it we’ll put a couple of them on here and the
    video after this one we’re going to show you how to put all of this on your PC
    board we’re going to start off on his breadboard on this side we’re going to
    do a couple of them and the first thing we’re going to use on here is the 680
    ohm resistor and how we’re going to do this is we’re going to connect it to the
    positive rail and we turn this around this way so it’ll
    make it a little bit easier and we’ll just take it for the positive rail and
    then come up here like that and then we’ll take 150 K now we’re gonna not
    going to trim a lot off of here and we’ll stick it in the next slot down on
    both the positive and the working part of it now we’re going to put a jumper in
    here and this jumper is going to go on the want the opposite leg of the
    potentiometer but it’s going to go from the negative terminal so we’re going to
    put it like right here okay so now we got that you can see our potentiometer
    here and they have some slots in there to set it and it’ll set it back just in
    case there you have some wires in there and the way and we’re gonna put it in
    there is like this we’re gonna put it up as close as we can to the front maybe
    that’s a little bit too close I’ll try this one right here okay right there and
    that gives us enough in the back for our transistor we’re going to do on this one
    here we’re going to bridge the gap in there
    and move it over some but before I do that let me put this other jumper in
    here I’ll put this one right here and we’ll put that jumper right there okay
    and that’ll connect this resistor all the way up and put it on this side all
    right now with this transistor right here like I showed you
    in the diagram before we have the emitter on the side where the side of
    the potentiometer that goes to the negative this is the base and then this
    is the collector so we’re just going to put it over here we’re going to try to
    bridge this over and I might have to get this a little bit further out and so as you can see right here and let
    me use my exacto this is the emitter in this pin right here on the base of this
    one is the base of the transistor and the collector is on this side over here
    now we’re going to put our LED we’re going to take our long one and put it
    where the jumper is and we’ll just stick it right up here I’m going to stick the
    power supply on here there we go you know on these longer ones there’s no
    connection between this side and this side here so you can see that that one
    works and let me get my screwdriver these always have slots in them and if I
    would have cut these resistors down they would bend down lower but just for the
    sake of doing this we’ll show you how that increases so we’re testing it out
    right away okay so we’ll take the power off of it
    that’s our first one now we’ll go over to the next one and we’ll do the same
    thing we’ll go from here to right there here we go got it in there and get my
    other resistor put that in the next one let me get my needlenose and I’ll just
    shove that in there with that okay there we go okay so we got those two resistors we’ll
    skip one and put in a jumper and put it on the negative let’s turn this in just
    a little bit it is no there we go I think it there we go okay we’ll take
    this potentiometer I put it right here and I think what we’re gonna do here
    we’re going to put a couple of okay when we take yes see if I could find if I got
    the right length jumpers here let me put another white one over here for the one
    end of our LED Esther bend it down a little bit more I’m going to speed this up a little bit
    while I put the transistor in there and what I’m gonna do is place the
    transistor like I showed in the diagram across from the center gap so just just
    to show you that it works just like I had it in the diagram on here the
    emitter is on the left the base is in the center and the collector is on the
    right and we’ll put the LED in there so we could apply power and watch this
    thing light up again and we’ll apply the power and adjust it so we can see the
    difference in the brightness of the two LEDs and there we go the brightness and
    the dim on both of them okay there it is all the way up to the
    brightness on there let me turn the lights on here I’ll show it that way and
    then we’ll bring it down let me put it to about right there so
    you could see them so even that not quite halfway there still pretty bright
    and we’ve spent so much time on this one here that I’m not going to have enough
    time I mean we’re already at about 16 minutes going on 16 minutes and this one
    here I’m gonna do on the next one show you how to do this I’m gonna do the same
    thing you show you the diagram well the diagram is going to be the same but I’m
    going to show you how to put it on the on the mini breadboard and then after
    that we’re going to put it on the PC board like one of these right here we
    might do this one here or we might do one I think we’ll do this
    one right here we’ll see on this breadboard here you could run as many as
    10 circuits on here as far as this one goes like here I only did the two we ran
    out of time with these two on the next video I’m going to show you how to do
    this and I may show you how these transistors work to increase the
    brightness on here while we operate the potentiometers on there so take a look
    for that coming up in the future episodes and we’ll see ya

    Railroad Thermite Welding
    Articles, Blog

    Railroad Thermite Welding

    August 28, 2019


    Railroad Thermite Welding and several Trains. Lots of train action so watch all of the video to see everything and Please Subscribe to me!

    Watch Model Railroad Video | DVD Gift for Children and Grandchildren | James Coffey
    Articles, Blog

    Watch Model Railroad Video | DVD Gift for Children and Grandchildren | James Coffey

    August 26, 2019


    Train leaving for Anaheim, Azusa, and Cucamonga. Everyone have your tickets ready, please, ’cause here they come… clickity-clack down the track It’s Lots and Lots of Toy Trains! Little toy train coming down the track Houses, farms and little toy shacks Little puff of smoke coming out the stack Hear those cars going clickity clack Lots of little toy trains Some old things just never change like Lots & Lots Of Little Toy Trains Through the tunnel and down the line Pass the station and the railroad sign Over the hills and through the pines Here she comes a-right on time Lots of little toy trains Some old things just never change like Lots & Lots Of Little Toy Trains Little trains fast and little trains slow Little trains high and little trains low Hear that little train whistle blow Watch them come and watch them go Lots of little toy trains Some old things just never change like Lots & Lots Of Little Toy Trains Some old things just never change like Lots & Lots Of Little Toy Trains Captions by GetTranscribed.com

    Easy Resistance Substitution Box For Your Model Railroad Projects
    Articles, Blog

    Easy Resistance Substitution Box For Your Model Railroad Projects

    August 26, 2019


    if you do any DIY projects on your model
    railroad or in fact anywhere else this resistance substitution box will come in
    handy when determining what size resistor you’re going to need for that
    project so let’s watch this and see how to use this and see how to assemble it
    because this is a kit you have to put it together hi I’m Tom Kvichak and this
    is Toms Trains and Things this channel was created to help other modelers who
    are in need of guidance in pursuing their dream of building a model railroad
    you know that I do a lot of electrical work on my channel and I came across
    this thing right here it was a kit now I’m going to show you how to assemble
    this and then how to use this for your projects but this one is mostly about
    assembling this because it comes in a lot of pieces I do have another one if
    you don’t like to solder where it already comes assembled it’s a smaller
    version of it it has surface mount resistors on the
    back of it and you have jumpers on it and you have seven decades going from
    one ohm all the way up to one meg this is more precise because you could put
    jumpers on there and get values in between what you have on here so let’s
    get started with it right after this if you would like to see more videos like
    this about model railroading and about electrical projects go ahead and hit
    that subscribe button and while you’re at it ding that bell and that’ll notify
    you whenever I have a new video coming out so let’s get started with it right
    now and see how I assembled this little box right here we have a bag full of
    resistors here and we’re going to spread these out and we’re going to have to
    sort these up by value because we’re going to have to solder them all on here
    like that what I did on here was I took some painters tape and rolled it over so
    be sticky on both sides and I went by this chart right here and put every
    resistor in order so when I go to solder this side here I’ll have every resistor
    that I have and what I’ll do when I do it I’ll just double check it before I
    put it in there this kit comes with its own solder I had to experiment with it I
    used this little board here and I tried a couple of different tips on there to
    see and to see which one would be the best one and did some of these pads
    right here and the better temperature to do this one is a 750 degrees we’ll try
    to add on at 750 degrees with this tip right here I don’t have it on right now
    now even though they give you some free solder on here I experimented with it
    and I found it a lot easier to solder with the lead-based solder now if you’re
    you know worried about lead-free this is lead-free this is LED base this is six
    hundred fifty degrees this is seven hundred and fifty degrees it’s harder to
    solder with this even though you have it up to seven hundred and fifty degree and
    it doesn’t look as pretty I decided after soldering a few resistors to quit
    using this and I went back to using the six hundred and fifty degrees solder the
    lead-based solder and let me get my visor on so I could see this real good
    y’all on violet red and gold okay so what I’ll do is just pin this down a
    little bit here and Bend that down there and see how close that is put this in
    here and that was pretty close and whenever you push it in it’ll it’ll
    conform to wherever you want so what I do is just tip it over to the side like
    that so it’ll hold it in there I’m taking the resistors off the tape one by
    one and placing them on the board as you can see here and then I test them
    just a double check and bend the things down bend the leads down and just try to
    get them in there straight and then bend the leads over okay now we’re down to
    our four which is your our four we’re gonna do our five that’s the next in
    line so I just pick it up in our five is 220 ohm and I got my meter right over
    here and I just check it and as you’ll see there’s a tolerance on these so like
    on the 220 ohm it shows up as two hundred and sixteen point four because
    there’s a on these these are five percent tolerance so you have a little
    leeway in there and you don’t have to but I line them up all the same way with
    the the gold band all to the right you don’t have to do that because there’s no
    polarity on these but it just it looks a little nicer okay now you can see the
    backside you have although the wires on there and you you put them you bend them
    over to the side so it’ll hold the resistor in place and so he’s seen there
    night all in place nice and tight up against the board and we could even you
    know press down on it like this they do make a holder for circuit boards but I
    don’t have one yet we’re working on the the resistor board the resistance
    substitution board and I have all the resistors on the one side in place and
    I’m getting ready to solder them all I have to do now is put the flux on there
    and get my soldering iron heat it up and start soldering
    since I do so many soldering tutorials I’m not gonna make you sit through 50
    plus soldering pads on here so just showing you a few on here now and after
    doing about six resistors on here on both sides is when I decided to go back
    to the my original solder lead-based solder 60/40 rosin core I was not
    satisfied at all with the solder joints and how they looked and how hard they
    were just to solder them in place now I did the same thing for the high
    side as I did for the low side I put them in order as they are on this sheet
    right here so I could easily put them on the board I’ll put all of these on the
    board on the other side now and we’ll proceed to solder those on once I get
    them in place okay that side is much much better the next part comes to
    switch the selector switch from one side to the other and what I did was I
    soldered the two outside posts which have no electrical connection that’s
    just to hold it into place and so now I’m going to solder the three terminals
    on there the holes for the switch were so large that I just have to drag the
    solder over top of it just to fill up the hole okay now those these traces are
    really close together on there so you’ve got to be real careful check to make
    sure that there’s no solder in between the traces on the board this is where I’m soldering one of the
    test leads onto the board as you can see all it takes is a little
    bit of solder on there for it to bond so I’m going to have to try to get a knot
    all the way down as close as I can so it won’t pull out both why oh here we go I
    got it through okay but what we have to do here is have to bend I have to bend
    this tab down this is a index tab on it normally you would have a hole in there
    so this wouldn’t turn but they don’t have it they have an extra pin and it’ll
    stay on here like this don’t put this here but what we want to do is make sure
    that these things will Center on the faceplate when we solder this in so
    we’re going to take this put this faceplate on here and just tighten
    tighten it hand tight so we have them positioned in the right place on the
    front panel all right now I have to solder all these
    pins on here and then on here there will be a jumper one will go when they told
    you to cut off a inch and a half but that’s kind of long one jumper will go
    that way across this hole right here and this pin and the other one the same way
    this way right there and into that hole right there
    so that’s what we have so far but what I’m going to do is before I start
    soldering the rest of this stuff on here I’m going to take my meter and then go
    down on each one of these resistors to make sure that they are correct and they
    have continuity through them there’s a two wire jumper wires that go from the
    switch either end of the switch to the wiper on each one of the rotary switches
    here so what we’re doing is we’re taking a wire from here and bringing it over to
    here on both sides and then so we could select and then the wiper on there
    selects what resistance there is now let me clean this up a little bit on the
    back and then we’ll put the alligator clips on and we’ll test it before we
    close up the box but that’s what it looks like right there
    it’s kind of hard to do on camera so you can see it but we just take the little
    tabs and bend them over the insulation like that just to hold them in place okay let’s see the wire hanging out the
    bottom air will solder that on let’s get the Blackwell out here all right there
    we go there trim the excess wait for this
    thing to cool down and then we’ll put the insulators on it and test it now
    here’s the test I got the my probes on the leads of the substitution box and
    we’ll turn this on ohms okay so it comes up at three point two five so that’s
    three point three K ohms there’s what’s on here three point three K ohm the
    three point three K ohms is this one here to 3300 ohms so what we’re gonna do
    is just take this right here and put it there
    and we’ll turn it that way four point seven that’s gonna be 10 20 247 102 okay
    so this is a five percent tolerance so to 2334 7680 see it’s a six point six 80
    km so and one 1k ohm 2.2 K on okay well switch it off to the other side to the
    higher end okay so it says point six eight Meg so that’s six hundred and
    eighty k so we’ll get the other knob put it on right here to the 680 push it
    down that one’s just a little bit off okay there should be 1 Meg okay 6.8 K 10
    K 22 K 33 K 47 K 68k 100 k – 20 K 330k 470 K so back to – 680 so you see we got
    everyone on there everything looks good on there
    overall this was a pretty simple project of soldering all the resistors on there
    now even though there was about 20 resistors on there that you had to
    solder on there I didn’t after determining I didn’t like
    this solder here it was a breeze going back to this solder and soldering
    everything on there including the rotary switches I mean it’s it took me all
    together now it took a little bit longer setting up the camera and everything
    like that and setting up everything for the video but all in all probably a
    little bit over an hour to put this thing together so that’s not too bad so
    I got more videos coming out I’m going to show you how to use this for the LEDs
    and there’s one more type of LED that I forgot to show you about and that’s
    gonna be coming up this month also but watch for the demonstration on
    this and also I have this one here which is if you don’t like to solder you could
    use this one and this one has more precise and I also have one for
    capacitors if you want to get into really not really complex circuits but
    more than just putting your LEDs in a building the Arduino we’re gonna do a
    few videos on the Arduino so look for them in coming up this month we’ll start
    off real small and they’ll get a little bit more complex so we’ll see ya

    Easiest Way To Run DCC Buss Wires On Your Model Railroad
    Articles, Blog

    Easiest Way To Run DCC Buss Wires On Your Model Railroad

    August 25, 2019


    we’re going to continue on the DCC
    discussion about wiring your layout and I’m gonna use romex
    and that’s what I’ve used throughout my entire layout so let’s get started with
    this right now I’m Tom Kvichak and this is Toms
    Trains and Things this channel was created to help other modelers who are
    in need of guidance in pursuing their dream of building a model railroad and
    if you’re going to do DCC then it is a good idea to run your buss wires with a
    good sized wire and what I did on mine was I used some romex I had some romex
    leftover from a project and I and did my entire layout with that romex I’m going
    to show you how to strip it and how to set it up throughout your layout now it
    doesn’t have to be romex could be any wire that is suitable for DCC that is
    large enough to handle the amperage through your system so you won’t have
    any loss of signal throughout okay I got my stripper I hope it’s sharp enough
    because this thing is over 30 years old all right here’s the room that’s right
    here it’s a black and white wire with a ground wire and it has a covering over
    top of it now this is usually used in house wiring run this up on your on your
    wire and see this little little blade in there like that that just sits down on
    there and you just squeeze it down the center of it like that
    and you just pull and what it does is it strips the coating off of the outside
    like that so you have your black and you have your
    white wire and then you have a crown wire in there and you could use your
    ground wire for a lot of different things on your model railroad just
    showed it to you right here now I’ll measure this and give you the dimension
    of it so you could see what it is you could use it for pipes you could use it
    for downspouts you could use it for anything on there so save the ground
    wire also now I have it stripped all the way through and I have approximately 15
    foot of black and white wire and 15 foot of bare copper wire all 14 gauge now the
    way you want to run your bust wires I’m gonna give you example of my layout here
    as you can see behind me I have a loop right here but it’s on two levels I have
    a high grade and I have a low grade and then as I move over here the low grade
    continues right underneath here actually my layout is shaped like an M okay I
    have a circle on this side on two levels and I go across the back and then I have
    a circle going across the back end alright so I have my command station
    right here in the middle and what I did because I have different levels and I
    was in different phases of construction on building my model railroad what I did
    was I put in a PM 42 so I could have four districts in there and what I did
    is I have high grade which is this whole area up on this level here I have low
    grade which starts right over here as it goes down to this level right here and
    it comes around underneath the camera right here and then it terminates
    then I have my Mountain which goes along the back end of my layout and goes up
    the Rockwood and I’ll show I’ll turn the camera around and show you that in a
    little bit and then I have this area right here it’s not finished yet it’s
    not connected yet but this area where I have my computer and everything right
    here and where I do all my work is big rock and that’s my fourth district what
    I did was I run a bus wire for each district so I actually have two bus
    wires going that way one for the high grade going that way and one for the
    mountain route going that way going back this way I have a bus wire going for the
    high grade come along the back and then for the low grade coming along the back
    here on the lower level so and then the fourth one is going to for Big Rock
    which is right here it’ll be coming up this way
    I already haven’t run underneath this table right here and I have some of
    it’ll run over here so that’s the four districts that I have now you don’t have
    to have run a termination on it it could it could go out and just stop it you
    know if you want to you can put a wire nut or any kind of terminal on the end
    of it so you know there’s no bare wires showing on it you just want to run your
    feeders along where your track is underneath your track and make your
    feeders as short as possible my feeders on there are no longer than
    six inches now you can make your feet or wires long you can make them a foot you
    can make them two-foot but I chose to keep it under six inches I’m gonna put a
    couple of drawings up on here of a cup of a few sections my mountain section
    and my high grade you can see how I ran my buss wires through my layout now I’m
    not going to show you the low grade or the other section for Big Rock
    I mean it’s just a repeat of what I did in the sections for the mountain section
    and the high-grade behind me I have a rough drawing of the mountain loop now
    as you can see I have the bus wire running along the tracks
    now I’m only showing one line for the tracks
    okay I’m not putting both tracks in here but I’m showing that you have the
    positive the minus the positive and the minus of the tracks coming up here now I
    have a siding on there and I have a loop coming around now what I had to do was
    put a reversing in there the AR-1 and the reason for that is as you
    could see on this side you have the negative coming around here okay and
    then it’s matching up with the positive right here so whenever you have that
    scenario you have to put a reversing loop in there so what you do is you
    double gap all the track right here there there and there
    what the manufacturers tell you with the reversing loop is now this is my theory
    okay say you have a locomotive and it’s crossing over right here okay and you
    have all your cars all the way up here and on your last car you have a decoder
    in it to operate a delight for your end of train light or you have a caboose
    with the light in it or anything else if your wheels are crossing this gap here
    the same time the wheels are crossing the gap back there on the other end of
    your train then you’re going to run into a problem because your AR-1 one is going
    to try to reverse polarity here it’s going to try to change this to a
    positive and this to a negative but over here you have another short
    you’re gonna run into a problem I’m not sure what it is if it’s gonna stall out
    the train and burn up the AR-1 or even burn up your command station or burn up
    your PM 42 like I have on here now this is just to show you that I have one bus
    wire or a set of bus wire to black and white
    running and I could you know I could feed it with two separate tracks going
    all the way around and bring it around all the way to a certain point and then
    I terminated here and then this is fed by the AR one it’s getting its signal
    from the bus wires over here I’ll do a drawing of another section so you could
    see how I did it now I have a rough drawing of my high grade now again I’m
    only showing one line for the track and one line for the bus to make it simple
    but you can see I have the this is in the center and I have the command
    station I have two PM 42 and I’m not showing all the connections for that but
    my command station and everything else is in the center of everything now this
    from here to here is 17 foot and this from here to here is 10 foot you have a
    bus wire that runs all the way down to here and then this one over here is the
    same thing now I’m branched off on these two right here where the tracks are
    coming apart where all where all the tracks are close in together this one
    bus wire will feed all these tracks here and the same thing for over here it came
    around now this is Leakin Creek right here and this is underneath the tunnel
    this is underneath scenery right here now it comes back out and I have the bus
    wire here and this one feeds the engine facility that’s underneath the mountain
    section and these are sidings right here this buss wire that comes down here
    off of the terminal board right there and I have these
    sidings and this is a loop that comes around my drop bridge and goes out to
    and terminates right here and going this way is to the mountain section and then
    this is the the close-in rail right here from the high grade that goes to the
    mountain section it’s terminated right there so you can see I just have you
    know the pair of buss wires coming around to feed wherever I need it now I’m
    keeping the feeder wires as short as possible as I’m coming around
    so I’m feeding both of these tracks here actually three three tracks right here
    because this one terminates right here to go to the low grade I’m not showing
    that in this drawing right here you could feed multiple tracks from a single
    pair of bus wires if they’re close enough together now I’m trying you know
    this right here from this track right here to this track right here is no more
    than I’d say ten or eleven inches so with the bus wire coming in between you
    know I could run short feeders to all of these tracks right here all three of
    these tracks right here and then I have a terminal board here where I I run it
    run it down this is the peninsula where I have my computer right now and it
    feeds these sidings right here and it feeds this loop coming around right here
    all the way to the drop bridge now there’s as you can remember I have a
    switch on a drop bridge that cuts off a section of this whenever the bridge is
    down so this is all dead track right here
    when the bridge is down but it’s all fed from the same bus wire at the same
    potential everywhere on there so you just have one pair of buss wires that
    feed all these tracks in here and all of this is connected
    – one section on the PM 42 you could separate your wires here you can see
    where I have high-grade feed and low-grade feed and then I split them off
    on this terminal board here in two different areas and this could be done
    anywhere on your layout where you need to branch off on another section I have
    below grade on another section I have the high grade and on another section I
    have the continuation of the low grade over here on a future city that I have
    called big rock the biggest thing that you have to be concerned about is making
    your bus wire large enough to handle the signal and to handle the area that you
    have now I did I I told you in the previous video what you have to take
    into consideration I gave you all the charts on there and I’ll put another
    chart up here to show you the same thing on this one here but that’s the biggest
    thing is make sure that your bus wire is big enough and your feeder wires you
    have your feeder wires close enough together on my layout I have them every
    three foot or closer now I use flex track through most of the layout here so
    every piece of flex track I have a feeder wire going to it on some of them
    I have more because of turnouts in there and you know you put the feeder wires on
    your sidings and everything else along with your main line so I have it at
    three foot manufacturers and everybody else
    NMRA has their standards for it in DCC Wiki they have the standards different
    manufacturers have their own standards for it so whatever you feel comfortable
    with is how you should do it okay if you feel that you could stretch it out to
    six foot just make sure that you do the coin test on there where you put a
    quarter on a rhasta tracks to make sure that your
    command station shuts down as long as it shuts down you’re doing good well you
    know that I’m gonna have some comments and questions on this and on the last
    video that I did I already had some questions and so I’m gonna be doing a QA
    coming up pretty shortly so watch out for that
    check out TomsTrainsandThings Dot Com and don’t forget to check out my patreon
    page and I want to thank Chris O’Connell for pledging on my patreon page on
    Sunday thank you very much I really appreciate it it helps out to put out
    better content and more content so I could teach you things about model
    railroading so that’ll be it for right now and we’ll see Ya!

    Articles

    A Six Year Old Runs This Model Railroad!

    August 24, 2019


    In my previous video,
    I showed you a new layout for my model trains… That took them through my garage… Down the driveway… Up the sidewalk… And over to my next-door neighbor’s house… Where 6 year old Maddox lives. Today’s video is kind of a behind-the-scenes video… About how I made that last one. I want to start by showing you
    the camera setup I used… To shoot a lot of that last video at track level. Thomas The Tank Engine was featured
    in quite a bit of that last video… And the most interesting thing about
    The G-scale version of Thomas… Is how his eyes move from side to side
    as he travels down the tracks. So, to make a good video about Thomas… It’s important to get a whole lot of shots
    that show Thomas head-on. I attached a GoPro on to Thomas’ friend, Percy… And placed Percy on the tracks in front of Thomas. Then I had Maddox run them both at the same speed… With just enough spacing between Percy and Thomas… So the camera would have a nice view of Thomas
    and his moving eyes. It took some practice for Maddox to figure out
    how to keep the two trains travelling together
    at the same speed… And with just the right amount of space between them to get some good video of Thomas. And by the way, look at my completely dead front lawn! We’re in a huge drought in this part of California. Last year, we got about HALF
    of our normal rainfall amount. So, our city has strict water rationing in place… and I had to simply turn off the sprinklers
    for the front lawn… So that I could have enough water to at least
    keep my back yard nice and green. Anyway,
    Maddox is pretty good at controlling the trains… And eventually,
    after a lot of trial and error
    at matching the speeds… And keeping the two trains
    just the right distance from each other… He got some good video for me. Now speaking of trial and error… For the first part of my video,
    where I was running my Amtrak passenger train… I had the camera mounted
    along the right side of the locomotive… And that created a few issues! First off, there needed to be enough clearance
    on the right side of the track… For the camera to get through
    without bumping in to anything. You’ll see here I had to pull the trash can
    out of the way at the last minute… To keep the camera from bumping in to it. The other thing about having a camera hanging
    over one side of the locomotive is that… It makes the whole thing unstable. On straight track, it still ran OK, but… At the bottom of the driveway there’s a curve to the left
    with the cement sloping down to the right. I’m going to pause the video right here for a second. Watch what happens when the locomotive tries
    to go through that curve… With the extra weight of the camera hanging
    over the right side. So, after that I made a few adjustments
    and I got things working… So that the locomotive could successfully
    go down the driveway… And make the curve on to the sidewalk. The rest of the sidewalk portion of the layout
    was no problem because… That was just a long run of flat track. And the trains were even able to make it up the slope
    of Maddox’s driveway. Which is not a given. Slopes are hard for model trains. The real tricky part of the layout
    was the section I had built… To get the trains back from Maddox’s driveway… Around the side of his house… And through the garden in front of my house. Now some guys
    probably would have carefully measured
    the number of inches of clearance they needed… And walked down the entire length of the track… To make sure there was enough clearance during
    the entire route, but… That’s not really my style! I just did a test run and hoped for the best! But that’s a risky strategy
    that can lead to a crash or two… Which it did! Luckily, GoPro cameras are pretty tough,
    so I managed to NOT damage the camera at all
    in that little incident. The final incident that occurred
    because I didn’t check the clearances
    on the right side of the track… Was when the train reached the garden hose. And that impact was severe enough
    to derail the train… But not enough to cause any damage
    to the train or the camera. So, that’s a little behind the scenes look
    at how that last video was made. If you want to see how that video turned out,
    I hope there’s a link to it on the screen right about now… And there will definitely be a link to it
    in the description of this video. And one more thing before I go… Yesterday I was up in the Sierra foothills near the southern entrance to Yosemite National Park… And I unexpectedly ran across a little railway
    called the Yosemite Mountain Sugar Pine Railroad. In the old days, this was a logging railroad. Now it’s a little passenger train for tourists… That takes them on a one-hour very-scenic tour
    through the redwoods and the mountains. And here is my favorite part! Check out the beautiful sound
    of this train’s steam whistle. That sound is music to my ears. I’m Jim Zim. I’m crazy about trains, and cruise ships. That’s pretty much what my YouTube channel
    is all about these days. Wait until you see my next video! I’m going to show you something
    I’ve never shown you before. I think you’ll get a real kick out of it. Subscribe to my channel
    if you haven’t done so already… So that you don’t miss the next video! There should be a link on the screen right about now
    to another one of my model train videos
    that I think you’d really like. Just click on it to start it playing. And, hey, thanks for watching!

    Easy Sound fx With A DFPlayer Mini For Your Model Railroad
    Articles, Blog

    Easy Sound fx With A DFPlayer Mini For Your Model Railroad

    August 21, 2019


    I have some new information from the QA
    that we did a couple of months ago and you’re gonna want to see this because
    it’s about sound on your model railroad so let’s see what I’m talking about here I’m Tom Kvichak and this is Toms
    Trains and Things this channel was created to help other modelers who are
    in need of guidance in pursuing our dream of building a model railroad now a
    couple of months ago I did a QA on a question from Will Kling and he was
    asking about a shield or some other device for his Arduino to do sound
    effects he says he has a steel mill and he says whenever people walk up to it he
    wants something to trigger it so he can play some sound effects of the steel
    mill well at that time I told him you know it was probably about $35 or $30 to
    get everything that you’re going to need include after the Arduino just to get it
    up to the volume that you need and the reason for that is because I was looking
    at some other things and the videos that I saw on them used a little speaker and
    it sounded like those greeting cards that you open up and get the song out of it or the cartoon clip out of it which is really terrible but I found out for myself I
    went a little bit deeper when I was doing my welder scene right back here
    now I found a DF mini and I’m going to put you down on the other screen here I
    found this little gizmo right here it’s called a DF mini and I paid under $8 for
    it I got it from the manufacturer I wanted to make sure that I got a good
    one now you can get knockoffs for as little as under two and a half dollars a
    piece and I think if you get them in quantity you could even get them cheaper
    than that I’m not sure but I looked around and you can get them on eBay
    really cheap I got this one at Amazon now all it takes is an SD card and
    SD card reader is it’s a micro SD card the reader takes up most of the the
    board the two chips are on the bottom it has the micro SD card reader and it has
    a small amplifier on it now right here is all the inputs and outputs on enter
    16 pins on it now I was impressed when I first turned this thing on and I think
    you will be too because I’m going to turn the power on to this thing and I
    have this this is an old speaker from home theater system it’s three ohm it’s
    a 3 ohm speaker now I put a sketch on here I first tried it with the Nano and
    it worked good with the Nano but I wanted to have something where I could
    trip the thing I could trigger the thing to start so right now I have to keep it
    on there for a half a second because when I was testing it I have all the
    print delays in there so I could read it so I have to keep it on for a second but
    you could hear this is at half the volume you could you could select the
    volume from 0 to 30 I have it selected at 15 now this sounds pretty good I got
    5 clips on there and I’m using songs on here from the YouTube
    library they’re royalty-free songs on here so we could play them on here but
    anyway I have the songs on there because you could hear them better on the video
    than the actual clips for your sound effects I have a I have a micro SD card
    some here somewhere here here we go I have another one here that I have the
    sound effects on there and those are down low but it still come out really
    good but as you could see from what you hear on here this is a really good
    device for the cost of it now it puts out a really good sound now granted this
    is a good speaker here and it’s 3 ohms they say 8 8 ohms anything up to a 3
    watt speaker on it but I’ll show you a little bit more on this how to hook it
    up the sketch on it and everything else but you could hear how good that sounds
    I’m not sure how it sounds until I replay this for you but to me this
    sounds really good now you have five EQ settings on here also right
    now I have a set of bass there’s like normal pop rock classic jazz country and
    bass that you could set it at and you can set the volume and there’s a lot of
    different items on there that you can set in your sketch and what I let me
    show you let me put it on the other camera right now and what I have
    I could go over the sensor and shut it off also so it’s easy as that is you
    could just put a sensor up against the edge of your layout and have somebody
    walk over to it and your sound effects will start operating go over it again
    and it’ll start over again so it’s easy as that I’ll get I’ll show
    you the sketch and everything on here how I hooked it up if you would like to
    see more videos like this go ahead and hit my subscribe button and while you’re
    at it deem that bow so you could be notified whenever I have a new video
    coming out yeah I wrote a simple sketch to get this thing to work with the
    sensor and all I did is put sensor on pin three and busy on pin five and the
    busy is a as a pin on the on the player itself that determines whether it is in
    use or not in use now in here you can see that I have a lot of have cereal
    begin and a lot of the commands in here are specific to the DF player library
    but I have the sensor and busy then the volume I have set to fifteen I have the
    equalizer on base I you don’t need that in there you could leave it empty or you
    could put normal there there’s normal plus five different ones on there and
    out to output device is telling it’s using this SD card now down here in the
    loop I’m using sensor state and is busy to determine what’s happening in the
    loop itself now I still have the the print in here to tell me if it’s either
    high or low at the at any given time but here’s how I started out as if the
    sensor state is low and is busy is high now normally when it’s not busy
    it’s high and then sensor state low is when when you cover up the sensor
    because the sensor is normally high so that’s telling it when you cover up the
    sensor that’s like pushing the button start this if statement and so it goes
    through the serial print ending and the one command that we’re really concerned
    about here is an able loop all and it will go through all of the songs or
    sound effects that you have in that given folder or on that SD card until it
    you give it another command the next command that I give is to turn it off so
    it’s the same thing if sensor state equal low is when we cover up the IR
    sensor and busy is low when it’s when busy is low it’s running it’s doing
    something so it’s telling it when when you cover that up and it’s and it’s
    running you want to shut it off so the command is disable loop all and that’s
    it that’s all you have to do and then you can go back up to the top and cover
    it again and it’ll start all over again now the sketch on the right is all the
    functions that are available in the library for the DF Player and most of
    this stuff you don’t really need it’s just there for your information but you
    can see over here you could have the volume volume up volume down you could
    put that into commands here’s all the the equalizer settings right there okay
    here’s what I used here for the SD card okay here’s some other ones now if you
    wanted to use the DAC and that is on and I’ll show it to you on the thing right
    here these two pins right here are for headphones or earbuds or for computer
    speakers output setting true output setting and
    the output and set the game to 15 so that means that you’re setting the
    volume to 15 for the deck for this line right here enable deck now that is again these two pins right here this would be
    the back right the deck left and you’ll need the ground on that one now you
    could use the computer speakers on there or if you wanted to monitor it with your
    headphones you could do it that way there here are all the commands that
    you’re going to need this is the full function right here and this is the one
    of the sketches that comes with the on github for the for the DF player now
    basically most of this is just information here that you’re going to
    need to put into your sketch like I have on my sketch I have what do I have now I
    have base but here are all the options for your equalizer I use this one here
    because we’re using an SD card I’m not sure what the other ones on there are
    for they don’t have any documentation on that over here for the enabled DAC that
    is for the headphones now the deck is the only option that is in stereo if
    you’re using the speaker that’s monell monaural and it combines both the left
    and the right into the center so when if you want to use left and right and use
    stereo you would have to use computer speakers on this and you would have to
    initialize it with one of the commands on here right here output setting true
    and 15 to set the volume on there okay here are all the available commands on
    here next previous play loop loop to the first mp3 file on there and you could
    put any number in there too do a specific file you could pause it
    you could start it you can play any folder or any specific folder and file
    in a folder with that command there enable loop all is what I use to turn it
    on and disable loop all to turn it off lute play mp3 folder you can play a
    specific folder in there there’s advertise you could do advertisement so
    we won’t get into that play large folder not exactly sure what that’s for
    you can loop a folder a specific folder you could random everything you can
    enable loop disable loop and here are all the commands that you could use at
    the top of your sketch for your serial monitor to see what what the state
    states are of the different categories here you know when you’re first starting
    just to see what’s in your sketch so that I’ll put everything up in the
    description of the video I’ll put this in here and I’ll take out all the print
    commands on there so you’d be able to see it without the print commands it’s
    only a just a couple of lines of code for each command so it’s a pretty simple
    code to get this thing started and to stop this again so let me turn
    this back on so you could see we ready let me see here’s the USB cable right
    here the only issue that I have with it and you’ll see when I plug this in you hear that pop in there let me reset it
    and that that’s the only thing I contacted a manufacturer and they told
    me a couple of things and that’s why I have these resistors here and that did
    not take care of the problem so they said they’ll send me another one which
    and so we’ll start this and this is at half volume I’m gonna move this speaker
    over here this is the speaker we’re using again
    oops did I just cover it up again I guess I did there we go but this is
    pretty good sound for a little device like that that’s under three dollars all
    the information is going to be in this description where you can find the
    library for this where you could find this in on Amazon and where you could
    find this find the this information the wiki right here that gives you all the
    information on this and how to set it up I’m going to incorporate that into my
    welding scene and also into my building scene I don’t know if you see right here
    we’re gonna have that back there but anyway I’m glad that I found this let me
    shut that off I’m glad that I found this and we’re gonna be using this you know a
    lot of our projects and how even do a lesson on Arduino made easy on this
    after this next one because the next one is
    the welding sketch is that’s going to be the lesson paint and now will be coming
    up but anyway we’ll see Ya