Browsing Tag: ho scale

    F&W071: 20′ & 40′ Container von PT Trains
    Articles, Blog

    F&W071: 20′ & 40′ Container von PT Trains

    October 12, 2019

    I brought some new containers because you can’t have enough of them And this time I brought the debut work from new Portuguese manufacturer PT Trains that outstrip everything you might have seen to date. Stay tuned! The container arrive in a more wagon or locomotive like packaging They feature a slipcover box and are double protected in plastic First a deep-drawn piece and then the container itself is also wrapped into plastic foil The packaging is one of the major negative points Of course, it’s a bit contradictory as a plastic model builder to brag about too much plastic in the packaging but a little bit less elaborate packaging would have been fine, too. Especially since a container packaging is different from that for wagons or locomotives something that will end up in the trash very likely. However, there is nothing wrong with the containers themselves. They are very true to scale, have a matt finish, printed absolutely flawlessly on five sides using the pad printing process, which includes opaque surfaces printed door rubbers and easy-to-read small lettering. And in terms of the retail price, they are on the same level as the container models from Kombimodell, which are also very good The 40′ is at 17 Euro MSRP and the 20′ at 15 Euro, but they are also available for 14 and 12 Euro respectively. But all of this was obviously not enough for PT Trains. As a special highlight, you can open the doors on all models And also the inside of every container is painted, this is also true for the floor. Wait, why’s that a highlight as there are containers by PIKO ………there are plastic boxes by PIKO they call „container“, but honestly… Whereby it is almost an Afront to compare the toy from Sonneberg with the models by PT Trains. Because even with the doors they stick to optics and function known from real containers. Each door consists of five individual parts, as you can see on the unpainted model. In addition, the containers have individually attached and, depending on the prototype, varying number of vent covers, which in the end sums up to up to 20 individual parts per container. That the corner castings are opened up is almost a side note. And if that’s not enough for you, you can enjoy the fact that PT Trains has implemented both the 40′ and the 20′ container in two different basic forms. One with square openings at the front and rear next to the corner castings. And on the other hand with the triangular openings typical to MSC. I might be mistaken, but according to my knowledge it’s the first time that something like this has been realized in H0. Differently corrugated doors however we have seen before, but even here PT Trains distinguishes three variants. The door with five beads comes with external or internal locks depending on the prototype. Even more variants will appear with the new releases announced for December. The price you pay for this: The containers are only partially compatible with most container wagons. Only the wagons from Kombimodell really fit. And most likely their announced very own wagons will fit. While for most of the other wagons the containers need to be reworked, for example by gluing in small pieces of wire as pins for loading onto MäTrix wagons, because these are models, not simple cargo complying to NEM 380 The containers also only fit on the container chassis by herpa by expanding the corner castings. In the case of the 40′ containers, the Goose Neck Tunnel, which is too flat, must also be deepened or removed, respectively. There are two more or less trivial issues Each container is currently only available with exactly one container number. Several numbers, such as offered by Kombimodell, would be desirable. And many large shipping companies are missing. In addition to Maersk and MSC, containers in the colours of COSCO, CMA CGM, Evergreen, OOCL, Hapag-Llyod or ONE or the merged companies NYK, MOL and K-Line, would be desirable. And not to forget Hanjin, containers in their colours can still be seen from time to time even today. But the December announcements will improve the situation on these issues, too. Hapag-Lloyd will be added, and there will be alternative container numbers for Maersk, MSC and Hamburg Süd. In summary, the negative points for these containers are not really any as they are either negligible or the issue is already being addressed by PT Trains. These containers are not just simple cargo, they are real models and PT Trains has given them all the attention that one needs to give to a model to make it good. PT Trains has thus launched the first product in the company’s history that can confidently be described as THE reference for the coming years. This is how you construct a container model today (I’m curious to see if you’ve paid attention to B-Models)…

    How To Use A  Breadboard For Your Model Railroad Lighting
    Articles, Blog

    How To Use A Breadboard For Your Model Railroad Lighting

    August 30, 2019

    if you want to light up your model
    railroad and want to see how to get this breadboard assembled so you could do it
    easily you’re gonna want to watch this video right now I’m Tom Kvichak and this
    is Toms Trains and Things this channel was created to help other modelers who
    are in need of guidance in pursuing their dream of building a model railroad
    and we’re going to take this breadboard that I showed you the other day I’m going
    to disassemble everything on here and rearrange it and show you how to do it I
    figured out a different way of doing it when you’re doing a breadboard you’re
    putting the components on there just to test it out and to see how it would work
    and experiment with it but since I have the design of a correct I figured out a
    way to rearrange it on there a little bit better so we have the LED on one
    side of the breadboard and everything else on the other side of the breadboard
    and I also made one for the mini breadboard that doesn’t have a power bus
    along the side on each side of them so I put a little connector on there
    transferring this to a circuit board is a next step after I show you how to put
    it on these little bread boards here now that’ll be another video after this
    showing you how to put it on a circuit board something similar to this where
    you have to put jumpers on the back of it this has holes similar to what’s on
    the breadboard now you can buy circuit boards in different sizes I have I
    bought a pack of circuit boards that have I think one two three four five
    assorted sizes you can also get circuit boards that have the traces that are
    similar to the bands that are on the breadboard now on the breadboard you
    have the power buses on either end you can see how the power bus works and then
    the working area everything is common in that direction
    right there here’s the schematic diagram of what we’re working with I’m going to
    show this battery here as our power source with the plus and the minus right
    here now we have the first resistor here R 1 which is the 680 ohm resistor this
    one right here is the 150 K ohm resistor and this is the the trim pot this is our
    variable resistor this is our q1 it’s a SS 8:05 oh and this is our LED we
    could use any LED we want right there now we’ll go over to what it looks like
    on the breadboard and we’ll see the same thing over here this is r1 which is the
    680 ohm resistor this is the R 2 which is the 150 K ohm resistor and you’ll see
    that they are both connected to the positive terminal there okay now this
    680 as you can see goes all the way up to the anode of the LED which is right
    here okay this resistor right here 150 k ohm
    goes on to one leg of the potentiometer right here right there the center post
    of this one goes up to the transistor the base of the transistor which is
    right here the other leg of the trim pot goes down
    to your negative and it also goes to the emitter of your transistor now on the on
    the actual breadboard that I’m working on I moved it down to these terminals
    right here I’m just showing it right here because
    it’s it’s a little bit clearer like this but I put these two leads the base in
    the emitter right here in here and I put the collector in this one I just bend it
    up to fit over on this one right here but it’s the same thing as coming down
    like this okay and then moving this up to there but anyway that’s what that is
    right there that’s the emitter which comes on to the other side of the
    variable resistor and goes to your negative terminal on your power source
    and then the other side of the transistor which is right here goes up
    to the cathode of your LED right there so that’s the entire wiring diagram in
    there you have two fixed resistors a variable resistor a transistor and an
    LED and that’s what it looks like here I’m going to I’m just showing you one
    instance of it but when we do it we’ll put a couple of them on here and the
    video after this one we’re going to show you how to put all of this on your PC
    board we’re going to start off on his breadboard on this side we’re going to
    do a couple of them and the first thing we’re going to use on here is the 680
    ohm resistor and how we’re going to do this is we’re going to connect it to the
    positive rail and we turn this around this way so it’ll
    make it a little bit easier and we’ll just take it for the positive rail and
    then come up here like that and then we’ll take 150 K now we’re gonna not
    going to trim a lot off of here and we’ll stick it in the next slot down on
    both the positive and the working part of it now we’re going to put a jumper in
    here and this jumper is going to go on the want the opposite leg of the
    potentiometer but it’s going to go from the negative terminal so we’re going to
    put it like right here okay so now we got that you can see our potentiometer
    here and they have some slots in there to set it and it’ll set it back just in
    case there you have some wires in there and the way and we’re gonna put it in
    there is like this we’re gonna put it up as close as we can to the front maybe
    that’s a little bit too close I’ll try this one right here okay right there and
    that gives us enough in the back for our transistor we’re going to do on this one
    here we’re going to bridge the gap in there
    and move it over some but before I do that let me put this other jumper in
    here I’ll put this one right here and we’ll put that jumper right there okay
    and that’ll connect this resistor all the way up and put it on this side all
    right now with this transistor right here like I showed you
    in the diagram before we have the emitter on the side where the side of
    the potentiometer that goes to the negative this is the base and then this
    is the collector so we’re just going to put it over here we’re going to try to
    bridge this over and I might have to get this a little bit further out and so as you can see right here and let
    me use my exacto this is the emitter in this pin right here on the base of this
    one is the base of the transistor and the collector is on this side over here
    now we’re going to put our LED we’re going to take our long one and put it
    where the jumper is and we’ll just stick it right up here I’m going to stick the
    power supply on here there we go you know on these longer ones there’s no
    connection between this side and this side here so you can see that that one
    works and let me get my screwdriver these always have slots in them and if I
    would have cut these resistors down they would bend down lower but just for the
    sake of doing this we’ll show you how that increases so we’re testing it out
    right away okay so we’ll take the power off of it
    that’s our first one now we’ll go over to the next one and we’ll do the same
    thing we’ll go from here to right there here we go got it in there and get my
    other resistor put that in the next one let me get my needlenose and I’ll just
    shove that in there with that okay there we go okay so we got those two resistors we’ll
    skip one and put in a jumper and put it on the negative let’s turn this in just
    a little bit it is no there we go I think it there we go okay we’ll take
    this potentiometer I put it right here and I think what we’re gonna do here
    we’re going to put a couple of okay when we take yes see if I could find if I got
    the right length jumpers here let me put another white one over here for the one
    end of our LED Esther bend it down a little bit more I’m going to speed this up a little bit
    while I put the transistor in there and what I’m gonna do is place the
    transistor like I showed in the diagram across from the center gap so just just
    to show you that it works just like I had it in the diagram on here the
    emitter is on the left the base is in the center and the collector is on the
    right and we’ll put the LED in there so we could apply power and watch this
    thing light up again and we’ll apply the power and adjust it so we can see the
    difference in the brightness of the two LEDs and there we go the brightness and
    the dim on both of them okay there it is all the way up to the
    brightness on there let me turn the lights on here I’ll show it that way and
    then we’ll bring it down let me put it to about right there so
    you could see them so even that not quite halfway there still pretty bright
    and we’ve spent so much time on this one here that I’m not going to have enough
    time I mean we’re already at about 16 minutes going on 16 minutes and this one
    here I’m gonna do on the next one show you how to do this I’m gonna do the same
    thing you show you the diagram well the diagram is going to be the same but I’m
    going to show you how to put it on the on the mini breadboard and then after
    that we’re going to put it on the PC board like one of these right here we
    might do this one here or we might do one I think we’ll do this
    one right here we’ll see on this breadboard here you could run as many as
    10 circuits on here as far as this one goes like here I only did the two we ran
    out of time with these two on the next video I’m going to show you how to do
    this and I may show you how these transistors work to increase the
    brightness on here while we operate the potentiometers on there so take a look
    for that coming up in the future episodes and we’ll see ya

    What Connectors Should You Use For DCC On Your Model Railroad
    Articles, Blog

    What Connectors Should You Use For DCC On Your Model Railroad

    August 27, 2019

    we’re gonna talk about electrical
    problems on your model railroad and what causes it and how to fix those problems
    so let’s get going with this right now I’m Tom Kvichak and this is Toms
    Trains and Things this channel was created to help other modelers like you
    who are in need of guidance in pursuing their dream of building a model railroad
    and a lot of people have been writing to me in the past two months about their
    problems with conductivity and their wiring on their layout I’ve determined
    that most of the problems that everybody was haven’t was through their connectors
    it could be that they are not using their connectors the way they should be
    so I’m going to show you the connectors that I have here some of the ones that I
    use that I have some that I won’t use anymore and I’ll tell you why and
    basically it’s this kind right here and I think this is the kind that
    everybody’s having the problem with the suitcase connectors and I’m going to
    show you other connectors like wire nuts and these little deals right here I’m
    not exactly sure what they’re called but they were originally made for
    fluorescent fixtures where you could use on your layout also and these ones right
    here they come in two three or four conductors terminal strips the screw
    type and where you tighten the screw down on the wire terminals that you use
    on the screw type terminals this is a little red Spade connector 18 to 22
    gauge what I think it is and if you have any circuit boards or bread boards that
    you want to use on air you see me use these on another project you have a
    screw on the top that tightens down on the wire inside so we’re going to talk
    about those and I’m going to show you how to use those properly so let’s get
    going with this right now since most of the issues have been
    coming from these suitcase connectors I’m going to cover these first and the
    reason I don’t like these is as you could see down into the hole you have a
    large hole in here and if you’re using two different wire sizes say you’re
    using a 14 gauge for your bus wire and you’re using maybe a 22 gauge or 18
    gauge for your feeder wires those are have two different diameters in there
    and when you press down on this blade that’s on here to make contact with your
    14 gauge wire it may not always hit that 18 or 20 or even 22 gauge wire these
    were originally used in the automotive industry to splice in on your cables
    using the same size wires now that is why these aren’t that good using two
    different wire sizes now I don’t have a tool for it but they do make a tool for
    crimping this but I use my channel locks and as you could see now I’ll put it on
    this side where you can see that and I’ll crimp down on that all right now
    even though there’s a little slot inside there for the wire you don’t always hit
    that and your wire may be smaller than that little slot in there and not
    penetrate the insulation on your wire all the way so when that happens you
    don’t have conductivity and once you quote once you close this up and you
    forget about it and go on to the next one and the next one as you’re running
    your feeder wires down your layout and then you try starting it up and you
    don’t have any DCC signal going to your tracks or
    you have bad DCC signals this is the reason why because in that little slot
    right there and let me see if I can get any closer
    with that right in here and this one right here it’s slotted but that may not
    penetrate the insulation or it may just barely penetrate the insulation on there
    and not make good contact on your feeder wire now they make these in different
    sizes now this one the red one right here and this is 18 to 22 gauge wire now
    as you can see this is a lot smaller then the blue one now the blue one is
    probably 14 and 16 gauge wire if it uses the same color standards as everything
    else like I said if you use a 14 gauge wire and you’re using a lot smaller wire
    on your feeder wires it may not penetrate the insulation I’m gonna take
    a picture of this and pull out one of these blades on here so you can see it
    better and I’ll put the picture right up here so you can see the slot in there
    compared to the wires and that’s why you’ll have bad conductivity on your
    layout the next connector I’m going to show you is originally made for
    fluorescent fixtures and I wish I had these when I had to change the ballast
    on many many light fixtures but what they didn’t didn’t come out with these
    until later on but what I use it for is for my bus wires if I have a section of
    my layout that I know that I’m going to be taking apart I’ll use this as the
    connection between it and you could only put this in one way because it’s slotted
    and it has a ridge on the one side and you put your wires in there and
    you’re good to go and what if you ever have to move it this would be good on a
    modular layout where you’re taking the part you could use these on here and
    just put it in there for your bus wire now there’s another type that I use
    similar principle where you push it in on a contact and that art that is these
    right here now I also use this hooking up my bus wire to my feeder wires and if
    I am using stranded feeder wires I solder maybe three or four of them
    together I only use these where I have multiple wires that I need to put
    together like near a turnout or in a yard where I have multiple tracks
    together now these will go in just as easily on your bus wire it just pushes
    right in and you’re good to go now they say on this type right here that they’re
    reusable all you have to do is twist them like this and it may take some
    doing but you could take it right back out and use it over again now the only
    problem with that is if you do that more than a couple of times you might lose
    the spring action in there it’s just a little piece of metal that’s down there
    on an angle and as you put your wire in it catches it now when you’re twisting
    it around your pull and pulling it out you may Bend that back up and you may
    cause it to be wider than what it originally was so I would I mean these
    are pretty cheap and I would recommend only using them once but you could use
    them in multiple size wires like I said this is made for salt this is made for
    solid wire either one of them and it’ll take a large wire and it’ll take small
    wires the only thing with the smaller wires you have to be careful with it
    what I do is on the smaller wires if it’s not
    if it’s not solid wire and if it’s too small now a 20 gauge and I don’t have
    any 20 gauge right here but what I would recommend is on a smaller wire
    especially on a stranded wire is to is to tin the end of it and stick it in
    like that and like I said when I use it on the stranded wire I usually put maybe
    two or three together and I’ll show you a picture of what I have over here for
    this type of connector but these are good connectors for running your bus
    wire and feeder wires you have a real good connection in there and they work
    excellent wire nuts come in all different sizes here’s orange in the
    yellow and depending on the manufacturer if you have if you stick with one
    manufacturer and you know the color codes on them but you could use this in
    solid wire and stranded wire solid wire works better but you could also use it
    on stranded wire so whoever you talk to they’re either going to tell you that
    you can leave them straight like that or start out twisting it make sure your
    insulation on each one of the wire is cut close to what the other wires are at
    the same length and put the wire nut on there and twist
    now some manufacturers put wings on it to make it a little bit easier like on
    this yellow one here and you’ll see why whenever your tighty tightening down on
    some of the wires and you’ll actually need these little wings on there to get
    them tight but just from tightening tightening them like this would be
    enough to have a good connection on there they’re not gonna go anywhere on
    this type of terminal strip right here where you tighten down the screw on your
    wire now you put one on each you can put one on each side or you could tip if you
    if your wires are small enough you could put a couple of them say like if you
    want to jumper from one to another you could put multiple wires on there
    but all you do is you strip it down as far enough what I you normally do is
    measure the distance to the center of it strip it that far and then just put it
    in and all you do is tighten down on them and you’re good to go on there now
    these come in different sizes this is a smaller one it’s a European size and the
    the ones that are made in North America they’re a little bit bigger and I’ll
    show you a comparison right here you could hook up your bus wires on here you
    could even hook up your wires going to your which machines or anything else on
    your layout on here as far as the feeder wires go you can take them and cut these
    down and use these on your for your feeder wires too you could run your your
    bus wires through here and then put your feeder wire on the terminal on one side
    or on both sides now another kind of terminal strip is the screw type now and
    I put a a terminal on there already and I’ll show you how to crimp the wire on
    that terminal here in a second and all you have to do is just take your needle
    nose pliers and then just bring it around into a circle just like that you
    want to put this in the direction that you’re tightening the screw you just put
    it underneath there and then bring it around and once you tighten the screw
    it’s going to tighten your wire up also but you can see right there how it turns
    around in there you could also do that with stranded wire but it is much more
    difficult with stranded wire because the stranded wire will come apart as you’re
    doing it if you’re going you stranded wire I would suggest tinted
    so you could manipulate it just like solid wire this little connector right
    here that has the screws in it and it’s similar to this terminal strip but it’s
    made for circuit boards and if you have small circuit boards or breakout boards
    with holes in them you could use this in there and actually solder them on there
    and these connectors have a little Ridge on there so you could slide more than
    just the two together if you’ve been working with servo motors or hobby
    motors then you may be familiar with this type of connector right here this
    is what you normally get on a servo motor and on the Hobby motor you have
    the little two pins on there similar to the jumper wires that you use on a
    breadboard now these are very simple you just plug it in and they are really good
    connectors I don’t have to show you too much about them but it’s usually on more
    delicate stuff and just a regular jumper wires or the standoffs that I showed you
    in another video and I’ll show it to you on here but say you have a board now
    this is a relay board but I’ll just show you that these fit right on the pins
    just like that on if you’re using a dort Arduino board or anything like that
    they’ll have them on top now we’re going to talk about this kind of connector
    right here now this is the kind of crimping tool that I have they’re made
    in many different styles this is one of the styles that I have right here when
    you’re stripping your wire you want to make sure that you strip it shorter than
    what the insulation is right here so when you put it in there you don’t have
    any bare wires showing out the back and if you do you can push your wire in
    just a little bit so it shows through it’s not going to hurt and what I do is
    if you could see on there there is a slot where the metal is folded over I
    take my crimpers and I put the slot in the side that has the notch in it and
    just crimp them down on it like that it’s not going to go anywhere and then
    you could put this on your terminal strip right there like that I hope with
    this demonstration you come out with a better understanding of the connectors
    that are available for use on your model railroad and how to use them that’s my
    intention to show you how to make things better on your model railroad so if you
    like what you see here and would like to contribute go ahead and take a look at
    my patreon account slash Tom Kvichak or PayPal me slash Toms
    trains and things where you can contribute to this channel where I could
    give you better videos so you could make a better model railroad thank you very
    much those that you have contributed so far I’m going to try to do a live show
    at least two of them a month either on Friday or Sunday so I’ll let you know
    ahead of time but on this Friday it’ll be coming up there
    so take a look for that and we’ll see ya

    EnterTRAINment Junction Highlights | Kids Toys Play
    Articles, Blog

    EnterTRAINment Junction Highlights | Kids Toys Play

    August 27, 2019

    Kids Toys Play! Hey Liam, where are we today? EnterTRAINment Junction! It’s milk delivery time! Beautiful! Hey William, do you think that they’re
    filling those milk cars full of sodor fuel? Yeah, maybe. TRUCKS! This might be my favourite train. He has Joby wood it looks like. Think that’s Ol’ Wheezy? That’s huge up there. How many trains are there? You think he’ll fall off?t This guy is trying to escape jail! They’re trying to hang a piano. We have Reg’s scrap yard. I can’t believe how fast this thing goes. Isn’t that
    a roundabout? Wow!
    This trolly says it’s time to go. look like you want to go on here. I like the
    Trolly’s. How about the ferris wheel? That’s nice. Really?
    Love this train! What’s the first thing you see? Tidmoth Shed? Hey look at this guy backing out on the
    turntable. I think he’s gonna get going. I love those Vanderbuilt tenders, it’s so
    beautiful. I’m not gonna get to a while he is going. Flora the tram.
    Two trains moving on the same track. Hey, do you think you can race this train?
    This train is gonna win. This is gonna win. Trains…, oh you’re
    winning now! Oh it’s this guy, I love this guy.
    is he gone that empty berth? I hope it crashes another train that we
    have to run out of here fast. he’s doing it. how many different trades are out here
    I got no idea like this is a green train here’s that brown one of the blue one blow their to me oh look a train for new this is absolutely huge William you name
    everything you can see I think your tree might become we think while I mean up
    top look we have two trains look at this three trains on once car racing let’s go okay wait Lily gets
    going it’s hi Coco quickly quickly quickly please it isn’t about to be betrayed
    he’s changed the story I’d love this place so much there’s so much detail and something going on inside
    every single one the night train and live you can see
    these guys working inside their offices late at night don’t hit the bottom whatever you do you
    immediately get messages and you stop the train hey did you
    operate the stream this is a huge train dip shop I can’t
    believe how huge this is man look at this all the model railways stuff for
    Thomas and Friends as well hey William I’ve never seen this before the battery
    charging station was Stafford that’s kind of cool it’s not fun so are you guys ready to go
    on this which which colors you’re gonna choose you want pink and you want purple?
    okay are you ready hey go on is that fun Ferrante’s yeah do that again hey guys click here to watch another
    video and like here to subscribe to our channel bye

    Golden State Model Railroad Museum N and HO Layout Tour: Exclusive Hidden Scenes
    Articles, Blog

    Golden State Model Railroad Museum N and HO Layout Tour: Exclusive Hidden Scenes

    August 26, 2019

    SFX: Model Steam Locomotive Cuffs SFX: Model Steam Locomotive Cuffs and whistles MUSIC: Trains & Dioramas Intro During my recent visit to San Francisco
    I took the opportunity to visit the Golden State Model Railroad Museum at
    Richmond Point. Founded in 1933 by East Bay Model Engineer Society this is one of the oldest model train museums in the United States. Built on over 10,000 square feet the museum exhibits three large displays of the most popular
    scales: N, HO and O. And all three scales display some potion in narrow gauge. The N scale display is an impressive 75 feet long and 21 feet wide
    layout built on L girder benchwork displaying almost all major railroad attractions of California. I start my journey by spotting a 2 locomotive consist moving through the Sacramento yard towards the Roseville yard. [MUSIC] And here the locomotives are picking up a train of autoracks [MUSIC] Now you can see the autorack train is moving through the Roseville yard towards Rocklin. [MUSIC] The prototypical length of the yard and those long freight trains make this scene absolutely life like [MUSIC] At this time I spotted a passenger train
    moving from Caliente to Bakersfield. [MUSIC] Here the passenger train is approaching Bakersfield station on the outside of the Bakersfield yard.
    I love the broad curves in this section of the layout [MUSIC] Later I spotted the autorack train
    leaving Bakersfield [MUSIC] The train is now moving towards Caliente. Justin, the youngest operator at the club is playing a dual role of a dispatcher
    and an engineer at the same time. [MUSIC] Here he has given the Train restricted
    speed while he ensures the route is set properly. [MUSIC] The train here takes a diverging route to Rocklin. The layout runs on Digitrax system and the museum uses loconet Wi-Fi interface and throttle app to operate trains from mobile devices [MUSIC] The HO layout is built on 115 by 50 feet
    space, featuring Western Pacific, Southern Pacific and Santa Fe. The layout is divided into three divisions: Valley Division, Canyon division and Mountain Division. Here I spotted Rich. We become friends quickly and after knowing that I’m traveling to see the exhibit from halfway around the world he was kind
    enough to take me closer to the layout by giving me access to the operators
    aisle. We spotted a mixed freight train led by a steam locomotive entering Newark in the canyon division and started following it. [MUSIC] Here the train is passing through Fremont [MUSIC} and then to the Niles Junction towards
    Niles Canyon [MUSIC]
    SFX: Model Steam Locomotive Chuffs with Whistle The scenery around the Niles Canyon is beautifully made. Renovations in some sections were a bit of a distraction otherwise it was really wonderful following the train through this long
    stretch [MUSIC] The train is now entering Pleasanton [MUSIC]
    SFX: Model Steam Locomotive Chuffs with Whistle The train is now crossing Livermore
    towards Altamont Pass. [MUSIC]
    SFX: Model Steam Locomotive Chuffs with Whistle Here the train is entering Tracy [MUSIC]
    SFX: Model Steam Locomotive Chuffs with Whistle And then leaving Tracy [MUSIC]
    SFX: Model Steam Locomotive Chuffs with Whistle The Train is now crossing Elvis wye towards Sacramento, thus entering the Valley Division. [MUSIC]
    SFX: Model Steam Locomotive Chuffs with Whistle The train is now running through
    Sacramento station. Notice the cutout representation of the station showing detailed interior. [MUSIC]
    SFX: Model Steam Locomotive Chuffs with Whistle Now the train is crossing the trestle towards Davis [MUSIC]
    SFX: Model Steam Locomotive Chuffs with bell [MUSIC] The train is now entering Martinez. [MUSIC]
    SFX: Model Steam Locomotive Chuffs with Whistle Back to the Canyon Division, you can find
    a train entering the Oakland Western Pacific yard. [MUSIC]
    SFX: Model Steam Locomotive Chuffs with Whistle Now going through the Oakland Southern Pacific yard. [MUSIC] and vanishing behind the yard office on
    its way to the Magnolia Junction [MUSIC]
    SFX: Model Steam Locomotive Chuffs Near the exit you can spot the
    California Nevada Railroad and the Nevada County railroad: An HOn3 display. Here you can find a goods train entering Colfax where the line
    interchanges with a standard gauge track. The railroad mostly serves the logging
    and mining industries. [MUSIC]
    SFX: Model Steam Locomotive Chuffs The O scale display, the largest one of
    the exhibit, with massive mountains on both sides have some interesting trains
    running across all lines. I did find this display more toy-like though, especially due to the unrealistic elevations at places. But, it was fun to watch the
    trains run by. One of the perks of a large-scale display is that you spot the details from far away. MUSIC: Trains & Dioramas Outro There was a head-on collision between
    two trains in Sacramento station. It’s not Fake News! [BACKGROUND]: laughter

    Easy Resistance Substitution Box For Your Model Railroad Projects
    Articles, Blog

    Easy Resistance Substitution Box For Your Model Railroad Projects

    August 26, 2019

    if you do any DIY projects on your model
    railroad or in fact anywhere else this resistance substitution box will come in
    handy when determining what size resistor you’re going to need for that
    project so let’s watch this and see how to use this and see how to assemble it
    because this is a kit you have to put it together hi I’m Tom Kvichak and this
    is Toms Trains and Things this channel was created to help other modelers who
    are in need of guidance in pursuing their dream of building a model railroad
    you know that I do a lot of electrical work on my channel and I came across
    this thing right here it was a kit now I’m going to show you how to assemble
    this and then how to use this for your projects but this one is mostly about
    assembling this because it comes in a lot of pieces I do have another one if
    you don’t like to solder where it already comes assembled it’s a smaller
    version of it it has surface mount resistors on the
    back of it and you have jumpers on it and you have seven decades going from
    one ohm all the way up to one meg this is more precise because you could put
    jumpers on there and get values in between what you have on here so let’s
    get started with it right after this if you would like to see more videos like
    this about model railroading and about electrical projects go ahead and hit
    that subscribe button and while you’re at it ding that bell and that’ll notify
    you whenever I have a new video coming out so let’s get started with it right
    now and see how I assembled this little box right here we have a bag full of
    resistors here and we’re going to spread these out and we’re going to have to
    sort these up by value because we’re going to have to solder them all on here
    like that what I did on here was I took some painters tape and rolled it over so
    be sticky on both sides and I went by this chart right here and put every
    resistor in order so when I go to solder this side here I’ll have every resistor
    that I have and what I’ll do when I do it I’ll just double check it before I
    put it in there this kit comes with its own solder I had to experiment with it I
    used this little board here and I tried a couple of different tips on there to
    see and to see which one would be the best one and did some of these pads
    right here and the better temperature to do this one is a 750 degrees we’ll try
    to add on at 750 degrees with this tip right here I don’t have it on right now
    now even though they give you some free solder on here I experimented with it
    and I found it a lot easier to solder with the lead-based solder now if you’re
    you know worried about lead-free this is lead-free this is LED base this is six
    hundred fifty degrees this is seven hundred and fifty degrees it’s harder to
    solder with this even though you have it up to seven hundred and fifty degree and
    it doesn’t look as pretty I decided after soldering a few resistors to quit
    using this and I went back to using the six hundred and fifty degrees solder the
    lead-based solder and let me get my visor on so I could see this real good
    y’all on violet red and gold okay so what I’ll do is just pin this down a
    little bit here and Bend that down there and see how close that is put this in
    here and that was pretty close and whenever you push it in it’ll it’ll
    conform to wherever you want so what I do is just tip it over to the side like
    that so it’ll hold it in there I’m taking the resistors off the tape one by
    one and placing them on the board as you can see here and then I test them
    just a double check and bend the things down bend the leads down and just try to
    get them in there straight and then bend the leads over okay now we’re down to
    our four which is your our four we’re gonna do our five that’s the next in
    line so I just pick it up in our five is 220 ohm and I got my meter right over
    here and I just check it and as you’ll see there’s a tolerance on these so like
    on the 220 ohm it shows up as two hundred and sixteen point four because
    there’s a on these these are five percent tolerance so you have a little
    leeway in there and you don’t have to but I line them up all the same way with
    the the gold band all to the right you don’t have to do that because there’s no
    polarity on these but it just it looks a little nicer okay now you can see the
    backside you have although the wires on there and you you put them you bend them
    over to the side so it’ll hold the resistor in place and so he’s seen there
    night all in place nice and tight up against the board and we could even you
    know press down on it like this they do make a holder for circuit boards but I
    don’t have one yet we’re working on the the resistor board the resistance
    substitution board and I have all the resistors on the one side in place and
    I’m getting ready to solder them all I have to do now is put the flux on there
    and get my soldering iron heat it up and start soldering
    since I do so many soldering tutorials I’m not gonna make you sit through 50
    plus soldering pads on here so just showing you a few on here now and after
    doing about six resistors on here on both sides is when I decided to go back
    to the my original solder lead-based solder 60/40 rosin core I was not
    satisfied at all with the solder joints and how they looked and how hard they
    were just to solder them in place now I did the same thing for the high
    side as I did for the low side I put them in order as they are on this sheet
    right here so I could easily put them on the board I’ll put all of these on the
    board on the other side now and we’ll proceed to solder those on once I get
    them in place okay that side is much much better the next part comes to
    switch the selector switch from one side to the other and what I did was I
    soldered the two outside posts which have no electrical connection that’s
    just to hold it into place and so now I’m going to solder the three terminals
    on there the holes for the switch were so large that I just have to drag the
    solder over top of it just to fill up the hole okay now those these traces are
    really close together on there so you’ve got to be real careful check to make
    sure that there’s no solder in between the traces on the board this is where I’m soldering one of the
    test leads onto the board as you can see all it takes is a little
    bit of solder on there for it to bond so I’m going to have to try to get a knot
    all the way down as close as I can so it won’t pull out both why oh here we go I
    got it through okay but what we have to do here is have to bend I have to bend
    this tab down this is a index tab on it normally you would have a hole in there
    so this wouldn’t turn but they don’t have it they have an extra pin and it’ll
    stay on here like this don’t put this here but what we want to do is make sure
    that these things will Center on the faceplate when we solder this in so
    we’re going to take this put this faceplate on here and just tighten
    tighten it hand tight so we have them positioned in the right place on the
    front panel all right now I have to solder all these
    pins on here and then on here there will be a jumper one will go when they told
    you to cut off a inch and a half but that’s kind of long one jumper will go
    that way across this hole right here and this pin and the other one the same way
    this way right there and into that hole right there
    so that’s what we have so far but what I’m going to do is before I start
    soldering the rest of this stuff on here I’m going to take my meter and then go
    down on each one of these resistors to make sure that they are correct and they
    have continuity through them there’s a two wire jumper wires that go from the
    switch either end of the switch to the wiper on each one of the rotary switches
    here so what we’re doing is we’re taking a wire from here and bringing it over to
    here on both sides and then so we could select and then the wiper on there
    selects what resistance there is now let me clean this up a little bit on the
    back and then we’ll put the alligator clips on and we’ll test it before we
    close up the box but that’s what it looks like right there
    it’s kind of hard to do on camera so you can see it but we just take the little
    tabs and bend them over the insulation like that just to hold them in place okay let’s see the wire hanging out the
    bottom air will solder that on let’s get the Blackwell out here all right there
    we go there trim the excess wait for this
    thing to cool down and then we’ll put the insulators on it and test it now
    here’s the test I got the my probes on the leads of the substitution box and
    we’ll turn this on ohms okay so it comes up at three point two five so that’s
    three point three K ohms there’s what’s on here three point three K ohm the
    three point three K ohms is this one here to 3300 ohms so what we’re gonna do
    is just take this right here and put it there
    and we’ll turn it that way four point seven that’s gonna be 10 20 247 102 okay
    so this is a five percent tolerance so to 2334 7680 see it’s a six point six 80
    km so and one 1k ohm 2.2 K on okay well switch it off to the other side to the
    higher end okay so it says point six eight Meg so that’s six hundred and
    eighty k so we’ll get the other knob put it on right here to the 680 push it
    down that one’s just a little bit off okay there should be 1 Meg okay 6.8 K 10
    K 22 K 33 K 47 K 68k 100 k – 20 K 330k 470 K so back to – 680 so you see we got
    everyone on there everything looks good on there
    overall this was a pretty simple project of soldering all the resistors on there
    now even though there was about 20 resistors on there that you had to
    solder on there I didn’t after determining I didn’t like
    this solder here it was a breeze going back to this solder and soldering
    everything on there including the rotary switches I mean it’s it took me all
    together now it took a little bit longer setting up the camera and everything
    like that and setting up everything for the video but all in all probably a
    little bit over an hour to put this thing together so that’s not too bad so
    I got more videos coming out I’m going to show you how to use this for the LEDs
    and there’s one more type of LED that I forgot to show you about and that’s
    gonna be coming up this month also but watch for the demonstration on
    this and also I have this one here which is if you don’t like to solder you could
    use this one and this one has more precise and I also have one for
    capacitors if you want to get into really not really complex circuits but
    more than just putting your LEDs in a building the Arduino we’re gonna do a
    few videos on the Arduino so look for them in coming up this month we’ll start
    off real small and they’ll get a little bit more complex so we’ll see ya

    Using Ambient Light Sensors – Arduino Made Easy(er) Lesson 05
    Articles, Blog

    Using Ambient Light Sensors – Arduino Made Easy(er) Lesson 05

    August 24, 2019

    welcome to Arduino made easy in this
    lesson we’re going to talk about photo resistors or ambient light sensors
    whichever you want to call it so let’s get started with this right now I’m Tom
    Kvichak and this is Toms Trains and Things I created this channel to
    help other modelers who are in need of guidance in pursuing their dream of
    building a model railroad and you may want automation or lighting in your
    model railroad and that’s why I’m doing these Arduino made easy’ her videos I’m
    making it a little bit easier for you to understand if you have no experience
    with coding or electronics now we’re going to talk about some photo resistors
    and I have this several different types of them and I’ll show you right here I
    had these are the first ones I use but since they’re so old one of them has a
    resistance it’s a lot different than this one here so what I did was I
    purchased some more I got a pack of 20 of them what I have right here are some
    old photo resistors from RadioShack that I purchased some time ago and what I did
    is I put some shrink tubing around it so it wouldn’t pick up the light on around
    the photo resistor and they actually look like this right here and it came in
    a pack of five and that’s when RadioShack still had their
    brick-and-mortar stores that was some time ago now
    you can if you have a starter kit you may have an ambient light sensor that
    looks like this you can see that it has the squiggly thing up on top but it’s
    mounted on the board and there’s also a resistor mounted on it okay now on this
    one here we have to put a resistor on the breadboard but if you have one that
    is like this right here on a breakout board did you get received in a kit you
    won’t need to add the resistor because the resistor is
    already on there we’re going to talk about the ambient light sensors and how
    to see what the reading is on the serial monitor just like we did with the
    potentiometer now I’m going to show you I’ll plug this in right here and this is
    what we’re eventually going to get to today we’re not going to use the LEDs or
    the resistors for the LEDs we’re just going to use the ambient light sensor
    actually two of them and we’re going to simulate a railroad crossing and this
    each one of these ambient sensors is on either side of that crossing to trigger
    it and so when you when your locomotive comes over on one side your train goes
    over on one side it starts the flashers and then when you get over on to the
    other side and it will keep it going I hope you can’t see it if I do it that
    way well this will start the flasher on this side and then as you come across on
    the other side of the crossing your flasher will stay on until you leave and
    then it’ll finally go off but we’re not going to talk about the LEDs on this one
    we’re just going to talk about the ambient light sensors and how to
    determine what value you need to trip your lights or if you’re going to use it
    for anything else to actuate whatever you want to actuate if you have
    something like this this is an infrared sensor an IR sensor now these come in in
    beginner kits also but we’re not going to talk about that and we may talk about
    that this type here in a later episode where we’ll show this we could use these
    instead of the ambient light sensors to do the same thing as triggering your
    crossing signal but anyway we’ll get into this one here a little bit later in
    another lesson these ambient light sensors can be
    referred to by several different names they can be
    called photocells they could be called CD s sales photo resistors light
    dependent resistors ambient light sensors so you could see that you know
    they could be called a lot of different things but basically they all do the
    same thing they change resistance depending on the amount of light that is
    on there so we’re going to start by using these two new ones that I got I’m
    going to remove these two LEDs just so you won’t get confused with those right
    there and I’m going to remove these old ambient light sensors that I had on
    there I’ll take these wires off here now what we’re going to do we’re going to
    use a zero and a zero this one here and a two and those are our analog pins that
    we’re going to use to read the ambient light sensors and what we’re doing with
    these ambient light sensors is we’re actually making a voltage divider now I
    showed you one of those if you saw one of my older videos about voltage
    dividers I did a little discussion on voltage divider so you can see how they
    work but this is basically the same thing we’re just taking the two leads
    and we’re reading in between this 10k ohm resistor here and the ambient light
    sensor so one side of this ambient light sensor goes to five volts
    here’s where it goes to this one goes to our A0 pin and this 10k ohm resistor is
    on the same line as the ambient light sensor and our pin that reads it and the
    other side of the 10k ohm resistor or wires in the way right there the other
    side of the 10k ohm resistor goes to ground so actually we’re reading between
    this five volt and ground and using this 10k ohm resister and the ambient
    light sensor as a voltage divider now that Kent 10k resistor won’t change but
    as we cover the ambient light sensor the resistance in that will change so we’ll
    come over to this other one and put them in the pins and once we do that we’ll be
    good to go so you can see one side goes to the five
    volts the other one goes to our analog read pin which this one is a to the
    resistor also goes on that same leg and the other side of the resistor goes to
    ground first thing we’re going to do is declare our pins and the readings that
    we want to get off of those pins so we’ll start off with integer and we’ll
    call the first one east pin and that is a zero the second one integer west pin
    and that will be on oops a – I’m gonna put this one didn’t move
    fast enough okay then we want our readings so we’ll
    call it East reading and West G do that make this a capital R right here so all
    right so those are the four values that we need to declare right off the bat and
    so we’ll come down to here what we want to do is start the serial
    monitor by serial begin okay then we have to come down we’ll come down here
    and the loop and what we’ll do is take those East reading oops I forgot to put
    the integer in that int up there there we go now we’ll come down to here and
    we’ll do east reading equal analog read and yes TPN and that’s the value that
    we’re going to get off of the pin from the ambient light sensor and we’ll do
    West reading and also do equal analog read whist pin now while I was typing and talking away
    I didn’t realize that everything that I was typing was off-screen so we’re gonna
    have to do this again we want to print out what the reading is and the way
    we’re gonna do that is we’re gonna say east reading a space of the Damned and
    want a damn and then actually put the east reading like that and the same thing for the
    West reading but what we’ll do we’ll cheat a little bit here and we’ll copy
    this and then paste it there and we’ll just go west and west and then we’ll put
    in a slight delay so we could read it they’ll put in a half a second okay now
    while I was doing this before I ran into an issue where it wouldn’t compile and
    it wouldn’t upload to the uno and let me move this up a little bit here and I’ll
    show you this is okay right now but what I did was when I was having an issue for
    some reason it couldn’t find a file and I don’t know why it couldn’t find it
    because the folder wasn’t there but I printed out what the error message was
    and I’ll show you how you can get these error messages to find out what the
    problem is now you can see down here on the bottom it says file does not exist
    so it was looking for this file right here and when I went back to find that
    file the the file was there in a folder that was wasn’t zipped yet unzipped yet
    so I had to unzip it before it would start working but why it wasn’t unzipped
    and it’s been working all this time I have no idea but maybe it’s something
    that they updated because they had a new version you know every once in a while
    you’ll see down at the bottom here that there is a some some updates available
    and you can click well I did that and that might have been
    what the issue was on there so let me put this down here like this but anyway
    I’m going to show you how you can get that you have to go to preferences and
    you’ll see right here show verbose output during compilation and upload
    well what I did was I checked on compilation and it will put all that
    stuff down there so let me compile it now you can see how all that information
    is up there now I’ll compile it again and you’ll see it has less information
    on the bottom okay bring this up here and here we go not showing the bottom of
    the thing anymore but anyway that’s it it just shows those two lines normally
    but when it when you have the those boxes checked off it shows a lot of
    different lines on there so anyway here’s this then we pull this back down
    so we could see that we have all that ready let me plug in the uno and we’ll
    pull up the serial monitor and as you can see it has east reading until 557
    West reading let me stop this West reading 533 now there’s a little little
    difference between the two sensors right there that’s not a lot of difference
    that’s that’s acceptable right there but what I’m going to do is put my finger
    over top on one of the sensors and you can see how the reading went down to
    under 100 and I’ll do the West one and I cover it the same way but it only goes
    down to about 108 109 107 somewhere in that area and what I did is okay let me
    show you here I had to turn off the lights to get this
    to work so let me turn these lights back on there we go
    now now you can see but the only problem with that with these bright lights on in
    here you’ll see a difference in the reading I’ll pull this back up here and
    you can see it’s all both of them or back up into the 800s so and when I
    cover this one here it goes down to about 421 okay this one over here about
    360 and what I did with these I I covered these up with the shrink wrap
    like I did the heat shrink tubing like I did on these other ones right here I
    don’t know if you could see it right there but here’s the RadioShack sensor
    and I have the the heat shrink tubing over top of it so it doesn’t so the
    light doesn’t leak through the side and I did the same thing for the other one
    you could also paint them but since this is really bright lights up here the the
    readings are gonna be way off from what you’re gonna have on your layout so once
    if you’re gonna use this method on your layout you could do an initial reading
    on on your bench just like we’re doing here to see where it is and we’ll go a
    little bit further with this and I’ll show you how to how to operate the LEDs
    with this but once you get once you get your sketch written up and everything
    and you get it satisfactory then you mount your sensors in between your ties
    in between the track and check it out and you know cover it up like with you
    know like with the train going over top of it and you’ll be able to get a better
    reading of how it’s going to work on your layout if you’re gonna have
    different figures on than what you have right here so once you get your sketch
    built and everything then you put your sensors down in place and then you put
    different figures in to tart to work your LEDs and we’ll get into how we do
    that here in a minute I’m going to skip a line here I want to get before that
    one bring that down a couple lines okay now we’re going to put in an if
    statement and we’re going to say if the ast or e a D and G is less than and
    we’ll say 500 on here and then we’ll put a brace in there and put another brace
    and then move this one down and we’re not going to operate any LEDs right off
    the bat we’re going to put a SP or a L P oops cereal we’re gonna say trigger led just the
    show that this is what’s going to happen so we’ll compile that alright then we’ll
    upload it to the board alright and we’ll see if we can bring that up I’m going to
    bring up the monitor here okay so we’re up in the 800 so we’ll see if that okay
    see so it said trigger led reading for 15 okay and it’s back up to eight
    hundred and sixty eight hundred and sixty s so that’s what we wanted to do
    we wanted to see what that is in the readings 366 so we could even bring it
    down a little bit more let me just I had a completely covered so let me put it
    about right there so that’s not quite okay so maybe we could go to we’ll put a
    reading of 450 in there oh it’s at 500 okay so let’s try the four let’s see still meaning 559 let’s bring it down to 600
    just to be on the safe side we’ll go here and we’ll compile that and bring to
    monitor up okay so we got it right there so it’s hard it’s hard to do with all
    these lights that I have here for recording so if I turn these lights off
    and you’re gonna see me in darkness right here and maybe this will ok so
    right there the ambient light is at 493 so let me change that and bring this
    down to say 300 and we’ll compile that and then open this up and then there it goes it goes once it gets under
    the threshold of – on less than 300 it will give me the reading trigger led
    okay so let me change this put a space here I’ll put print the line there we go
    we’ll do it that way so it’s not on the same line bring us back up okay there we
    have our readings okay so you see it says trigger LED let me turn the auto
    scroll off and you could see it a little bit better so it brought it down
    I had it completely covered so it brought it down to almost 100 but as you
    you could see as I was covering it up it was it was changing the reading on there
    let’s slow this down so we can read this a little bit more okay we’ll do one and
    a half seconds delay between the readings so we could see it a little bit
    better as we’re doing this okay so I’m bringing my finger down so you see once it got below the 300 it
    said trigger led and I’ll cover it like this here and we’ll bring it back up and
    then it’s back normal and then we’ll cover it again okay now we’ll do the
    same thing with the other one okay so you see the other one the West
    raining goes down but what we’ll do there is will let me bring this up well
    right in and I’m going to show you something different than what we did
    last week we’ll do a else if and and I’ll explain it here and we’ll do less than 300 on that also and I should put that inside I should
    bring this curly bracket up I’ll delete this one right here and I’ll bring this
    one right here and that way this in this if statement serial print and then this
    else if statement is in its own braces so we’ll do a print on this one and
    we’ll see say the trigger other l-e-d okay and let me put a print line in
    there okay so now we have an if statement in there and if east reading
    is less than 300 it will print out trigger LED and then else if and what
    that means is if it sees West reading under 300 you know print out trigger
    hell other LED on the serial monitor will pull up the monitor here and you
    can see we got West reading and East reading I’ll cover up the the East one
    and it’ll say trigger led I’ll cover up the West one and it’ll say trigger led
    and trigger other led so I’ll take it off of the one and it just says trigger
    other led and I’m off of it off both of them and we’re back to normal now that
    we know how to get the data from the ambient light sensor on the serial
    monitor we could figure out what is the right setting that
    we can trigger the LEDs now we’re going to do that in the next episode next
    Saturday on May the 12th I’m going to show you the sketch with all the notes
    in it and I’m also going to show you the fit Seng diagram right here as always
    you could find a copy of both of these on tom’s trains and things calm slash
    Arduino and the Fritzing diagram I put the sensors apart from each other
    because we’re gonna use the same diagram in the next lesson where we’re gonna
    have the LEDs right in the center if you would like to see more videos like this
    on Tom’s trains and things go ahead and hit that subscribe button and while
    you’re at it ding that Bell and that’ll notify you whenever I have more videos
    coming out and speaking of videos go ahead and check my playlist where you
    could see a number of videos categorized for you to find easily so check them out
    on the playlist page now on next week we’ll work with the LEDs and we’ll work
    on how to get those LEDs working like I showed you in the beginning of the
    sketch to get them to alternate whenever we cover up the light sensors we’re
    gonna take some of the code from Jeff lenses Gate crossing sketch that he did
    oh about three or four years ago and we’re gonna modify it a little bit so we
    could work it on this sketch right here so your figures on here may be different
    than mine depending on how much light that you have have how much ambient
    light that you have what your sensors because not all sensors are made the
    same they not all of them have the same exact resistance then the next one so
    your readings may be different so play around with the figures in there and
    I’ll show you in the next one how to get everything working so we could get a
    working gate crossing at least with the lights as far as the bells go that’s a
    more expensive than ever we have to buy more stuff for that so that’s going to
    be wait later on but at least you the knowledge right now of how to get
    started with it so you could build on that knowledge and
    we’ll keep on going after the next one we’ll keep on doing more sketches on
    different things for our model railroad so we’ll see Ya

    Superb Model Railway made by French Railroad Enthusiasts
    Articles, Blog

    Superb Model Railway made by French Railroad Enthusiasts

    August 24, 2019

    Today, we are going to
    make a journey to France. At the great model railway exhibition
    in Leipzig, Germany, the French model railroad club “Amis du Rail 67” presented
    its beautiful layout built in HO scale. On the modular railway
    layout, there are one large railway line in
    HO scale, two railway lines in narrow gauge,
    and a miniature street for vehicles of the
    famous Faller Car system. The whole display takes approximately 15
    meters in length and 5 meters in width. [ Music ] Pilentum was absolutely
    fascinated by the good work, how buildings and trees and the
    landscape were modeled. Furthermore, the background
    consists of a beautiful painting. I guess, the background image
    was painted by Patrice Hamm, a famous artist
    in railway modelling. The model railroading club and its members
    created a very special atmosphere: The landscape is not
    overcrowded with gimmicks. It is a simple, but very
    beautiful landscape including a small town with
    half-timbered buildings. But the most important thing, of
    course, is the rail transport traffic. On the main line of the railway we
    can discover a lot of the finest steam locomotives and steam trains
    used by the French State Railway. [ Music ] There are also some diesel locomotives and,
    for example, the famous French railcar. Therefore, there is no catenary,
    because the French model railroaders do not prefer high-speed trains, only
    steam trains and freight trains. On the two narrow-gauge lines some ugly model
    trains running on two independent loops. Mostly, there are railcars for passenger
    traffic running between the small villages. Finally, there is also a
    miniature car system. There are trucks and buses driving
    behind the railway lines. So, let’s enjoy this superb model railway
    made by French railroad enthusiasts. [ Music ] [ Music ] [ Music ]

    Static Grass Applicator (Body) – How To – Model Railroad
    Articles, Blog

    Static Grass Applicator (Body) – How To – Model Railroad

    August 21, 2019

    Believe it or not, this is a home made static grass applicator at work. If you wanna know how to get the same results, keep watching and I’ll show you how to build your very own – highly effective and cheap static grass applicator. Hey y’all and welcome to another build guide! My name is Luke and in this guide I’ll take you through step by step how I built this static grass applicator. As you can see, the results are fantastic and it will bring any scene you’re working on to life. If you wanna get serious with your model scenery, a static grass applicator is a must. So, let’s get started! In the description below, I’ll include a complete list of materials needed to make the grass applicator. The stand-out-component that is a must for this to work is a Negative Ion Generator. There are a number of places you might pick one up. eBay had a few last time I checked. I get mine from a electronics hobby store here in Australia called Oatley Electronics but check at your local electronics store as they might have them in stock. ‘Cost me AU$14 and is the most expensive part of the build. This is a two part-series due to it being quite a long guide. In this video I’ll show you how to build the body of the static grass applicator and then in part two I’ll show you how to install the electronics. To get started I grabbed a 50mm (2″) pipe coupler and mark just past half way. That way – when I cut it, the flange on the inside will remain. I make a second mark 1cm (3/8″) up from the first mark and using a circular saw, I make a cut on the first mark. As you can see, the inner flange remains. Then I make a cut on the second mark and you’re left with these two pieces. Now for the main handle. I use 50 mm (2″) PVC pipe. Measure it to about 22cm (8 11/16″), mark it and cut. You should have three pieces and depending on how good your saw is, you’ll probably need to give them a sand. The coupling is very tight and very hard to slide over the pipe. So, to make it easier I sand down the pipe as well as the inside of the coupler until the coupler fit over the pipe just snug so it wasn’t too lose but not too tight. For the base, I use a plastic container. Preferably you want one that is not a screw-on-lid. This one works perfectly. The lid just snaps in to place. Using the 50mm pipe, set it on top of the container right in the middle and then trace around the outside as best as you can in the middle. Using a knife: cut out the center. Sand it down until the part fits through the middle. You want it to be a nice, tight fit. Now for the lid. Again you want to cut out the center, but you also want to keep the part you cut out because we’re gonna use that again later. Use the knife to cut out the center and then sand it back to neatening it up. The part we just cut out is going to be the base to seal the upper part of the applicator so grass doesn’t end up at the top of the PVC pipe. I use the coupler as a rough guide and draw the inner circle on to the plastic. Then using scissors or a knife: cut out the circle. Sand it back until it fits perfectly inside the coupler and it can press up against the inside flange. To make sure everything is going to work I test fit the parts before gluing. Now it’s just a matter of piecing it together. The top coupler needs to slide about double it’s length up the pipe and then the container slides on behind it. I mix up some epoxy and use that to secure the plastic stopper piece against the flange. Next, put some epoxy around the top. This will help secure the container once the piece is put on the part. To glue the PVC coupler to the pipe, I use pipe primer and glue. It’s very strong and make a permanent hold. Once that’s on, I slide the container down and press it against the epoxy that I just applied to the top of the small coupler. To secure the other part of coupling, I first use epoxy around the top edge of the container and then again use the PVC pipe primer and glue before sliding the coupler down and pressing it against the container. You’re left with a very strong and durable handle and base for your static grass applicator. To finish of the lid, I sand down the inner edge. This roughens the surface so that the glue that we’ll be applying later will have something to grab on to. To make the mesh, I grab a metal sifter and cut out the middle part. Mark out a circle so it’ll fit inside the lid with a little overhang and then cut out the circle. It’s probably best to use old scissors. I don’t think cutting metal with normal scissors could be good for them… The lid I use has a small lip on the inside which works well for containing the glue. I press the mesh down around the lip and hold it in place with something heavy. I use Loctite to glue the mesh in place. It’s a two part epoxy and does a good job of holding the mesh and sticking to the plastic lid. Now it’s almost done. Just a few holes to cut out. First is the hole for the switch. Pretty straight forward.
    Just big enough to make snug fit. Make sure the part is on a flat surface before drilling. Otherwise you might bust the plastic container when you press down on the drill. PVC carves very easy, so a hobby knife should work OK to cut out the shape for the switch. The high voltage output line from the negative ion generator needs to connect to the wired mesh. So we cut a hole in the bottom for that to poke trough. And finally, I cut a hole in the side so the negative line from the power source can connect to the area we will be applying grass. We need some sort of support on the inside to hold the generator. For this, I use a piece of pine cut to length so it won’t protrude out the top of the handle. I cut a notch so the generator will fit nicely. Obviously a chisel would be the best tool if you have one. Otherwise you can do what I did and use a wood saw, a screwdriver and a knife. ‘Gets the job done. I wanted the generator to be towards the bottom. I screw it in to place and check that it fits OK. That completes the body of the static grass applicator. Next it’s just a matter of wiring it together and putting it to use. So if you wanna keep going, click on the link just here, and you can start watching part two. Thank’s for watching part one and hope to see you soon. Happy road railing! Cheers! (It might be a good ide to make
    the holes before assembly)

    Easy And Cost Effective Way To Light Your Model Railroad
    Articles, Blog

    Easy And Cost Effective Way To Light Your Model Railroad

    August 21, 2019

    woodland Scenic’s has an easy way of
    adding lighting to your model railroad through the just plug hub now this could
    be very expensive so if you’re a budget minded you may want to build one for
    yourself and I’m gonna show you how to do it on a breadboard so let’s get
    started right now hi I’m Tom Kvichak and this is Toms Trains and Things this
    channel was created to help other modelers who are in need of guidance in
    pursuing our dream of building a model railroad there our model railroaders who
    are not very good at electrical issues so Woodland Scenics made this just plug
    for them but there are others that are pretty good with electronics and
    electrical items and want to experiment with things so I’m going to show you how
    to do duplicate this right here on here on a breadboard I’m gonna break this up
    into two videos I’m going to go over these components on here the new
    components that I haven’t showed you anything on yet and on the first one and
    I’ll show you a little demonstration of what I did so far on the first video and
    then the second video we’ll get into the meat and potatoes of putting this thing
    together and showing you how to do this and the rectifier this rectifier and the
    other rectifier that I just got in so make it a little bit easier so you could
    hook it up to your power pack now one thing that you can do with this is the
    just plug the way they designed it you could use it for AC and DC they make a
    wall wart for it and you could also hook it up onto the AC of your power pack
    because they have a little rectifier and capacitor in there and that’s what this
    is right here so we’re going to talk about that and then go into the building
    of this in the second video so if this is your first time here and you would
    like to see more videos on model railroading and cost-effective ways to
    illuminate your model railroad and animate your model railroad go ahead
    and hit that subscribe button and while you’re at it ding that Bell and that’ll
    notify you whenever I have a new video coming out and while you’re at it check
    out my playlists in the playlist page of my channel I have a lot of different
    playlists in there categorize by subjects so it’s easy for you to find
    there’s over 40 some playlists in there right now so go check that out also I
    have 5 potentiometers on here and the potentiometer was the most expensive
    item on here which was 95 cents apiece but they make cheaper ones now I have 5
    lights this one has 4 this cost you what $18.00 19 it what does this cost you
    here well there’s a cost savings here and you could add to it keep adding to
    it and the more you add the less it’s gonna cost you because the LEDs are very
    inexpensive the transistors are very inexpensive I got a whole box of 200
    transistors now they’re different transistors but the ones we use there’s
    20 of the ones in there and you we could use some other ones in here also that
    could do the same thing the resistors are very inexpensive like I said the
    most expensive part on here are the potentiometers Christmas tree lights
    here is a set that we bought after Christmas and paid I think about $2 for
    Matt’s CVS you get 50 LEDs in here now there are Christmas tree lights where
    you can get a hundred of them that may cost that maybe a dollar more but this
    is what we picked up we got four boxes of it so that’s about 200 LEDs so
    that’ll last us a long time in our experiments here but anyway this is what
    the circuitry looks like on there and they use SMDs on there so it’s pretty
    inexpensive for them to make these in fact I price the little transistors that
    they have on here and I could get a hundred of them for
    two dollars and 68 cents the only thing is that I’d have to wait about three to
    four weeks to get them because they’re on a slow boat from China just like
    everything else these SMD resistors on here which are
    dirt cheap and just like this the probably the most expensive part on it
    is the potentiometer but before I show you how to do this and what is involved
    in doing is I’m going to tell you a little bit about we haven’t discussed
    these yet transistors potentiometers and what I have here are diodes and a
    capacitor and I and I got a little switch that I had it on a little push
    button switch well we’re going to talk about diodes and capacitors now the
    reason I have four diodes on there is because it’s a rectifier but after you
    know dude this was another thing that took a while to get here but this is the
    same thing it has four leads on the back of it that I soldered on this board just
    to play around with it but that is also a rectifier it changes AC into DC and
    we’ll talk about that and they add a capacitor to it just to hold the charge
    let’s take a look at the components that we haven’t seen yet the diagram you see
    right now on the left-hand side is of a potentiometer and on the right-hand side
    is a visual representation of exactly the same thing the only thing with the
    one on the left the wiper where you could see the arrow that could be moved
    from one end to the other to change the resistance throughout the entire circuit
    number one and number two are both capacitors in the ones that we’re going
    to be working with right away or is number two which you can see a plus sign
    on it that’s because it’s an electrolytic capacitor it stores
    electricity and has a plus on it you could only hook it up in one direction
    if you try hooking it up in the opposite direction you
    you’ll explode the capacitor so you have to be careful with those this is a
    symbol for a diode similar to the LED except it doesn’t emit light current
    flows from the anode to the cathode and blocks current flow in the opposite
    direction from the cathode to the anode so this a device is used to control
    which direction the current flows in your circuit here we have two
    transistors the one on the left the NPN is the one that we’re going to be using
    in our projects right now this device regulates the current flow in our
    project it can either be turned off it could be turned on completely or it
    could regulate the current flow going from the collector to the admit er we
    won’t get too far into the theory behind it but we’ll just use it in our projects
    and rely on the magic of the NPN transistor this last picture here is a
    rectifier with the RC filter on it now the four diodes on there converts the AC
    signal to DC and with the capacitor and the resistor it smooths out the peaks
    and valleys of the voltage created by the diodes as you can see in the dotted
    lines this may seem a little confusing in the beginning but once you start
    working on circuits and see how everything works and experiment along
    with me you’ll be able to see how easy this is to understand I use the only D
    just to determine that there’s power on it because I when I was first tested it
    out I had these leads on my meter detect a voltage on it but anyway there it is
    right there with the rectifier on it coming off of the AC on a power pack
    this breadboard right here this mini breadboard right here is a rectifier you
    can see the four diodes and I have the capacitor and actually I have two
    resistors on there one for the capacitor and one for the LED you know I don’t
    need the LED on it it’s just for indication that there’s power on now
    this over here is the rest of the circuit where you have two resistors a
    transistor in a potentiometer to light two LEDs and to change the brightness on
    it now I’m using one finger on here so I’m just going to go like this and raise
    that up all the way up and you can see the difference in the lighting now with
    this right here it’s not as bright as it is if i hook it up to the power supply
    with the 24 volts now they have a wall wart that you could use to plug into
    this that is 24 volt DC and that’s what I simulate on this power supply right
    here and I’ll you know I’ll show this right here and then I’ll just switch
    this over I’ll put the leads on here from the power supply and you can see
    the difference you could turn them all the way off and then brighten them up
    with the potentiometer I hooked up one of the lights just plug lights this is a
    blue one that they have let me see if I could fun yeah thing right here LED
    stick on lights blue 25 milli amps each ready to plug in and where is this thing
    at 2:59 I got it a bunch of them but anyway these are the the ones that they
    use are very very bright I have this one turned up all the way and let me turn
    this one up so that’s Christmas tree light all the
    way up and that’s the one that you get from wooden Scenic’s to just plug lights
    now that’s the blue one right there let me turn this one down a little bit I
    mean they’re very bright I mean they’re they’re a a 6-pin LED and they’re on a
    real small circuit board but they they get pretty bright as you can see right
    there and put 10 all the way up that one this one’s all the way up and this one
    right here is all the way up and these I have cut down a little bit I just wanted
    to show you I hooked up a the other output to it so I got five on there now
    and I’ll put the power supply on and I have these down pretty low so I’m going
    to increase them and as I increase them we’ll take a look at the amperage on
    here and it’s three of them all the way up
    there’s the fourth one all the way up and here’s the fifth one so with five
    five LEDs all the way up to maximum brightness on it it’s 0.1 three amps so
    you could make a lot of these before you get up to one amp but I mean I wouldn’t
    worry about the amperage on this if you’re using even if you’re using a
    Walworth it’s 24 volts like they have for the just plugs you can that one is
    one amp or if you’re using on a power supply and you want to use the minus 12
    and the plus 12 on there you can get one amp on there and still have plenty of
    power left over – for a lot of other lights now there are other ways of doing
    it we could do the same thing with the Arduino which is going to be a lot
    easier and I’ll show you that in one of the episodes that I do for a nor do we
    know how to change the brightness on their next episode I’ll show you how to
    go from a bare breadboard like this – this right here will go through all the
    steps of assembling this and we’ll also show you how to make the rectifier and
    I’ll do it with the four diodes and I’ll do it with the small rectifier right
    here which makes it a little bit easier all it has is four pins on it – for the
    AC and – for the DC and we’ll show you how to do that so you could hook it up
    to your power pack just like this the AC accessories we’ll see ya