How to Replace Brake Pads and Rotors (COMPLETE Guide)
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How to Replace Brake Pads and Rotors (COMPLETE Guide)

August 13, 2019

Hey guys, ChrisFix here and today i’m going to show you how to replace your brake pads and rotors on your car or your truck. And we’ll be replacing the brake pads on my mustang which is perfect, because the brake setup on this car is going to be similar, if not identical, to most other makes and models. And this video is going to be a complete guide so if you’re a beginner and you’ve never changed the brakes before, after watching this video you’ll know everything you need to do to be able to replace the brakes yourself. This is also a good guide for a refresher if you’ve done brakes before or if you’re an expert. I’m gonna be including tips and tricks to anyone watching could perform a complete and thorough brake job. And the last thing i want to say for everybody who’s doing this for the first time, don’t be afraid to change your own breaks! I know the most nerve-racking thing is the fear that if you do something wrong you’re not gonna have brakes to stop your car, but let me tell you. The brake systems on cars are actually pretty simple and it’s hard to mess up, so give it a shot. You’re going to save a ton of money, you’re going to learn something new and you’re going to feel proud that you’re able to fix your own car. And before we begin I want to thank Advanced Auto for helping out and supplying the brake pads and rotors for the video. Alright! So let’s begin. The tools I’ll be using for this job are all common hand tools. You need a simple socket set, a breaker bar, a torque wrench, a metal wire brush, and the only specialized tool is this brake piston compressor which is inexpensive and you can pick this up when you pick up your brake pads and rotors. And i also want to include: have a large hammer like this which will help knock the rotors off if they’re stuck. And also have a pry bar or flat head screwdriver like this which will help pry open the caliper. You’re also going to need to get your tires off the ground, so i’ll be using a jack and jack stands. And those are all the tools you’re going to need. As for consumables you’re gonna need some copper anti-seize, silicon paste, brake cleaner and thread locker. And finally you’ll need some brake pads and rotors. I prefer getting ceramic brake pads, they are a little more expensive but they have less dust and they tend to last longer compared to the semi-metallic pads. And make sure when you get your brake pads it includes the brake hardware which is important for doing the complete brake job. And for rotors i like using a regular blank rotor. While drilled and slotted rotors are nice they will eat up your brake pads a lot quicker so for the street this is perfect. And that’s all you need, so let’s begin!! There are four simple steps to changing your brake pads and rotors. First you want to safely lift the car off the ground and then remove the wheel. Second remove the brake pads unbolt the caliper and remove the rotor. Third put the new rotor on, reattach the caliper and install the new brake pads. And then fourth, put the wheel on, lower the car to the ground and go test those brakes. So let’s get started! Since we’re replacing the front brakes, the first thing you’re going to want to do is lift the front end off the ground, but before we do that, you’re going to want to grab your wheel chock, in this case i’m using a piece of wood, and chock off the rear wheel so your car won’t move. And before we left the tires off the ground we want to crack all the lug nuts so they’re loose, because if you’re trying to do this with the tires off the ground, the wheels just gonna spin. If you’re not sure where to jack up your car from, go check out the owners manual. In here they give you instructions and show you exactly where they recommend you jack the car up from. Since you replace brake pads in pairs, we’re gonna be doing both front brake pads, so I like jacking the car from the middle so both tires raise up at the same time. And the best way to lift up both front tires is by jacking it up from the front crossmember. This is a thick piece of metal and supports the whole front suspension. And with the car in the air slide your jack stand underneath the car and I try to just stick my arms underneath the car when i moved the jack stand. Don’t put your whole body under the car. You don’t want to be under the car until the car is securely set onto the jack stands. Now we’re looking for a place to put your jack stands. This right here is the floorboard. If you put it here, your jack will go right through the floor into your car. What you’re looking for, is you want to find a thick piece of metal frame just like this right here and you can find the same exact spot on the other side. And after both jack stands are in place slowly lower the car down so that the jack stands securely support the car. And just add some backup, I like to set up the jack so there’s some light pressure on that cross member. And the last thing I like to do is give the car a good shake and make sure that it’s stable and doesn’t move. And with the car safely lifted off the ground we could remove the lug nuts and remove the wheel. And another thing I like to do for extra safety is slide that wheel underneath the frame. That way in worst-case scenario you have something solid there and the car won’t drop all the way down. Alright! So now we have access to our brakes so now we want to remove the old brake pads and our old rotor and in order to do that we need to get access to the bolt behind the caliper here. But we want to work with the car and make the job that much easier. So get in the car and turn the steering wheel so the bolts to the caliper are more accessible. And now it’s that much easier to get to the bolts. The first thing we’re going to do is we’re going to remove the brake pads and in order to do that we’re going to go and remove this bolt right down here which is going to allow our caliper to pivot upward like a clamshell. Then we could pull the pads out. Normally these bolts use a regular socket but in this case we have a torx bolt, so we’re using a T50 torx. And I start off with a breaker bar every time just so you can break these bolts loose easily. And then once you use your breaker bar to break the bolt loose, you can use a regular ratchet to loosen it up the rest of the way and it’ll come right out. And you can see the blue loctite on the thread so we’ll be sure to add some when we screw this in later on Now we could pry open our caliper which might take a little force, and then remove our old brake pads and they’ll come right out just like that. So for this brake caliper we just had to remove that one bolt right down here, but on other brake calipers there’s also another bolt right up here that you could remove to take this whole clamshell off. In this case all you have to do is lift this up like that and the caliper slides right out. And with the caliper removed you don’t want the caliper to just dangle by the brake line because that’s how you damage your brake line. So, instead, you want to try to find a place to put your caliper where it’s out of the way and there’s no pressure on the brake line. If you don’t have a nice place to leave the brake caliper like that you could also use a bungee cord or rope or something to hang it up. All right! Next, we want to remove this caliper bracket so we could pull the old brake rotor off, and to remove the caliper bracket we want to go behind the knuckle and you can see there’s a bolt right up here and a bolt right down here holding this bracket in, that we need to remove, In this case it’s a 15mm bolt, and again start off with your breaker bar so you can easily break these loose. These are going to be the tightest bolts, so they’re going to be the toughest to break loose and again after we’re done cracking the bolts loose with our breaker bar, we could loosen them the rest of the way with are shorter ratchet. And that’s one and that will remove the bottom with no bolts holding it in, the caliper bracket slides right out. Now we’re going to remove the brake rotor and you want to make sure that the brake rotor isn’t being held in by a screw. In this case there’s nothing holding it in, so you could try wiggling it off but just as i figured it’s rusted to the hub. So to remove the rotor we’re going to be using a large hammer and you want to use a pretty good amount of force and hit the outside edge of the rotor spinning the rotor as you go, until it breaks loose. Just like that. And if you take a look at the back of the rotor you could see it’s all rusty in here, which just rust wields itself right to the hub. Now with our old rotor off we want this surface right here to be smooth and relatively rust-free. Doesn’t have to be perfect but we want a good flat surface, so grab your metal wire brush or sandpaper and start removing the rust from the hub surface. It’s also a good idea to use eye protection and a dust mask while you’re doing this. You want to have a smooth surface for your new brake rotor, so come out flush against the hub. And after we sand the whole surface we want to grab a bucket, grab our brake cleaner and spray it down. And since we’re cleaning things up, now’s a good time to clean up our caliper bracket. Awesome! With everything sanded down we could add our new brakes. But you guys know how I like to go over the top with my cars, so I cleaned up the suspension a little bit, so i just removed all the grease, i sanded it down, used a little bit of primer and then used black spray paint to get this looking real nice, and you guys definitely don’t have to spray paint your whole suspension, but you want to just make sure that your hub surface is completely smooth, so that we could install our new brake rotor. And before you go and install your brake rotor, one thing that they do with brake rotors is they put this oily film on here so that the brake rotors won’t rust when they’re all packaged inside the box. So what you do is you get a little bit of brake clean and just spray down the entire surface of the rotor and then wipe it down with a paper towel. And you could see all the oils that are getting removed from that rotor surface. And don’t forget to do the other side as well! Wipe it clean and again look at all the oils removed. Good, now we can install our rotor and you’ll see that the rotor tends to want to fall off, so a little trick to hold it in place is to use a lug nut and just thread it all the way on, so it prevents the rotor from moving while you install the rest of the brakes. With the rotor securely in place, now we can install our caliper bracket which is held in with these two bolts, and we want to add some medium strength thread locker to prevent vibrations from loosening up the bolts as we drive. Now we could take a bolt and align our caliper bracket and tighten the bolt by hand and we’ll do the same thing with the second bolt and hand tighten that all the way down. Good! Now grab your torque wrench and on this car the caliper bracket bolts get torqued down to 90 pound feet. That’s one and that’s the other. With our caliper bracket in place, now we want to grab our caliper and we need to compress this piston all the way back into the caliper, so our new thick brake pads will fit in here. And a quick tip is before you go and compress this piston into the caliper, we want to remove all the acidic brake dust and all the dirt and grime here, because we don’t want that stuff to find its way into the caliper and contaminate the brake fluid and damage the seals. Now you don’t want to spray the brake clean directly onto here because there’s a rubber seal right back here and brake clean will dry out that seal. So instead just spray it onto a towel and clean off that piston. and that simple trick will prolong the life of your caliper. Now we could compress the piston and to compress the piston just get one of the old brake pads, put it up against the piston and then get your brake piston compressor tool, slide it in there and start turning it. And you can watch the brake piston compress right back into the caliper. This should feel nice and smooth. It shouldn’t be difficult to do and once it starts getting difficult to turn, that means you bottomed out here so loosen it up and remove the tool and break pad. now there are some pistons that are solid and have a cross in them, and these pistons need to be turned to compress. And they make an inexpensive tool for that. This is most common on the rear brakes but i just wanted to show you in case you encounter this. So with our piston compressed, now’s a good time to add our new brake hardware. For this caliper we only have one break clip that goes right there, so i’m just going to use a screwdriver and pop this out. And the old one was oriented like that, so we’ll install our new one in the exact same orientation. Good! With the piston compressed, our break clip in, and our caliper bracket on, we’re ready to install our brake pads. But before we do that, we need to lubricate the brake system. And to do that we’re going to be using a copper-based anti-sieze. Not the typical silver graphite based anti-sieze. So the first area of lubrication is right here at the brake caliper bracket. Right where the brake padding guide meets up here and down here we want to add some anti-seize. So be careful, just add a little bit right down here and right up here. And it makes sense to have some type of lubrication here so you don’t have metal-to-metal contact with no lubricant. Because this does have to slide back and forth as the brakes get used. And then on the other side of the caliper you have the identical spots where the brake pad sit in that you also want to lubricate. It’s also important to lubricate the brake hardware. So just get a little copper anti-sieze and lubricate the top of the brake hardware. And the last place to add a thin layer of anti-seize is on the back of the brake pad which helps prevent squeaks. And that’s everything you need to lubricate. And right now your hands are gonna be covered in anti-sieze so it’s important that you clean them off or get new gloves, because you don’t want to get the anti-seize on the brake pad surface or the rotor, which could cause your brakes to fail. Alright! So let’s install our brake pads and if you guys are wondering what these stripes were on the brake pads, that’s actually burnishing compound to help break the brake pads in. And it’s really this easy, the brake pads just slide right in just like that. They won’t fit in properly if you put them in backwards and that’s what I mean before, when I was saying it’s really easy to install brakes, it’s really hard to mess this up. Now the caliper slides on something called caliper guide pins which is this right here. You want this to be smooth, rust-free and lubricated really well so the caliper can move freely. So clean it up with some brake clean. And now you’re gonna want to add some silicone paste right to that caliper guide pin. Don’t use anti-sieze and don’t use a petroleum based lubricant, because those products will degrade the rubber on the caliper. Silicone is the proper lubricant to use for the guide pins. And this is how one set up for the guide pins looks. In other cars, like this Honda, the guide pins are built into the caliper which are just like bolts that you slide out, clean off lubricate, and then push back in. You want to make sure that the guide pins move freely. In this case the caliper slides over the guide pin and then you close the caliper over the brake pads like so. And now we’re going to install our bolt, but if you remember we saw some blue loctite on the end here, so i’m going to add a little bit of blue loctite on the end, and tighten our bolt up. Now this bolt gets torque down to 25 pound feet of torque. Then we can turn the steering wheel straight so we can more easily put the wheel back on, and don’t forget to remove that ;ug nut you had on there to hold the rotor in place. Then you can put the wheels on your car and hand tighten all your lug nuts. And we are almost done! Now go do your brakes on the other side and then after you finish the other side, remove the jack stands and slowly lower the car so the tires are just touching the ground, so they won’t spin when you go to torque them. Now you want to torque down your lug nuts in a star pattern so the wheel tightens evenly. Most wheels are torqued between 80 and 100 pound feet and in this case I’m torquing them to a 100. With the wheels torqued, let the full weight of the car on the wheels and remove the jack. And that’s all there is to replacing your brake pads and rotors. There’s one more thing we need to do inside the car and that’s start up the car, then you want to pump the brakes a few times. Don’t worry, you’re not gonna have any brake pressure the first few pumps but then the pressure buildup and the pedal should feel hard. And that’s all there is to it. So now after watching this, you’ll be able to change your own brakes, so go out there and give it a try. And if you do change your brakes after watching this video, let me know in the comments below. As always, hopefully the video was helpful and if you’re not a subscriber consider subscribing for more how-to videos just like this, and finally the products i used in this video are linked in the description


  • Reply Thomas Allison December 28, 2017 at 11:41 pm

    Hey Chris you masked magician. I just tackled my wife's front brakes on her '14 Suburban. Thanks to your videos for giving me the confidence. $49 bucks. Yes sir. Thanks again. Keep up the great vids. Peace

  • Reply Megan Goudey July 6, 2019 at 11:57 pm

    I just did the front pads and rotors on my Grand Cherokee. After a $500 quote, I just decided that I can buy Jack's and stands and do it myself thanks to you. Now I also don't need to spend $$$ on seasonal tire change overs either. I've got everything for it paid for with what I saved by doing it myself.

  • Reply Luis Perdomo July 7, 2019 at 2:00 am

    I replaced my rotors and pads. Why are they making a grinding noise when in motion and applying the brakes?

  • Reply Metal Steel July 7, 2019 at 4:47 am

    lol my cars brakes don't look anything like this ๐Ÿ™

  • Reply Nelson 1890 July 7, 2019 at 1:47 pm

    Any guide for 2014 ho da accord?

  • Reply Ruly 2V July 8, 2019 at 3:42 am

    Is it the same for the rears? ๐Ÿ˜… asking for a friend lol

  • Reply Andrei Pedernal July 8, 2019 at 5:02 am

    Hey Chris I recently replaced my brakes (new pads and rotors). 3 weeks later my brakes are squeaking again. Any ideas why and how to fix it? Thanks.

  • Reply HoustonTxDave July 8, 2019 at 3:39 pm

    Just finished changing my brakes and rotors. I like cleaning and lubticating tips you have really made a difference. I watched this video 20 times. I made sure i had all the parts and supplies before starting. Did the front breaks on saturday and the rear brakes on sunday. Its hot in Texas so i did them late in the evening and early in the morning. Everything sounds smooth and great. I only spent about 50 dollars on the pads and few dollars on tools. Overall i spent about 150 dollars and it took about 2 to 3 hours with a few stops to drink some water to stay hydrated. Thanks for your help ChrisFix!

  • Reply Sue Ellen McGoey July 8, 2019 at 6:39 pm

    OMG! Totally awesome

  • Reply abhishek kashi nath July 8, 2019 at 7:10 pm

    Hey Chris, what is the difference in drilled rotors and normal?

  • Reply Centaur1 July 8, 2019 at 8:47 pm


  • Reply Fluffy July 9, 2019 at 1:22 am

    I dont have silicone paste can i use something else or do i have to use it at all no one has it in stock near me plus i need to get the brakes done quickly

  • Reply cesar urcino July 9, 2019 at 5:05 am

    Me gusto gracias!!!!!!

  • Reply rabah belmiloud July 9, 2019 at 7:45 am

    You are the best thanks a lot

  • Reply Russell Hess July 9, 2019 at 12:23 pm

    Great video. Question: Why copper-based lubricant on those few moving parts?

  • Reply Irving G. July 9, 2019 at 1:02 pm

    Bro you are a great teacher

  • Reply A Google User July 9, 2019 at 3:29 pm

    How do you feel about NAPA ultra premium rotors for a Honda Fit?

  • Reply Raj Bahadur July 9, 2019 at 7:54 pm

    Nece video sar

  • Reply ROBBYS818 Gaming Channel July 10, 2019 at 11:02 pm

    So my brother in law and I decided to do the brakes on my car I wish I could say we did a good job but now I have to stomp on my brakes push them all the way down in order for the car to stop, soon after that I get a burning smell every time… any tips on how to fix them? @chrisfix

  • Reply Monstrxus GT July 11, 2019 at 4:29 am

    We all appreciate how EXTRA you are ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿฝ

  • Reply will games July 11, 2019 at 3:42 pm

    Imagine this guy with ken blocks 1400hp mustang hoonicorn lol

  • Reply tariq altabrawi July 11, 2019 at 6:36 pm

    Good job

  • Reply pier vlzqz July 11, 2019 at 11:04 pm

    Thanks bro. God bless you. Great and easy

  • Reply Jeremiah Kirk July 12, 2019 at 8:45 am

    Do you have a video for transmission fluid for the mustang? Due to the mustang not having a transmission dipstick.

  • Reply mean mug music July 12, 2019 at 9:06 pm

    im gonna try as soon as my part come in brother…. i think i got this???? lol

  • Reply Dave G July 13, 2019 at 1:15 am

    For those of us who aren't trust fund babies you're helping us save some cash and have a sense of accomplishment. Your video gives me the confidence to try this.

  • Reply Christopher Boivin July 13, 2019 at 3:20 am

    Doing my brakes and rotors this weekend. I'll let you know how it goes ๐Ÿ™‚

  • Reply Amit Kumar July 13, 2019 at 5:21 am

    excellent video.very helpful.

  • Reply Ricardo clio172 July 13, 2019 at 12:38 pm

    Hey Chris , after you replace botch pads and rotors , is the bleeding mandatory ? Cheers love the channel !! ๐Ÿ˜„

  • Reply Patrick Shannon July 13, 2019 at 9:49 pm

    Great video, I am going to be doing my breaks tomorrow and came across this video and must say very well done, thank you for the help!!

  • Reply Mark V July 14, 2019 at 2:30 am

    I did appreciate the video and it helped stream line things and guide me to do a proper brake job. In the past I would ignore the caliper grease and torque wrench use(on a 85 Chevy Citation II). I also ignored using a metal brush to clean the calipers. Sometimes I didn't even clean off then new rotors and yes they squeaked. I did get away with doing these things on that old car, but who knows how long I could have done this.

    In July 2019, I did my front brakes on a 2007 honda crv. I found my calipers to be a rusty mess. I did use his advice to use a metal brush and break cleaner to clean up the calipers, but they still had a lot of rust after a decent effort at cleaning them. I think they will be ok though. I found it difficult to clean the brake pistons all the way around. I could only do the front and sides because the caliper restricted clear access. I have never used anti-seize on a brake job and I decided to refrained from using any kind of anti-seize on the caliper pad channel or any where because I was afraid some might end up on the rotor or pads. My brakes used a spring metal in the channel where he had used anti-seize. I'm not sure it would have helped on the Honda. I didn't think I needed thread lock on the caliper bolts(14mm and 19mm size), but the rotor screws used on Honda rotors ( not shown Chris's video) could have used some. They seemed loose going back in. Also, cleaning the inside of the caliper pin holders(holes) was not easy, thus I focused on cleaning just the pins and placing new caliper grease on the pins. I found If I put too much grease on the pins, it would squeeze outside of the rubber seal and possible get on the rotors. Thus I used up several blue paper towels cleaning the excess caliper pin grease which was a little time consuming but worth it. I think it would be a good idea in the future to replace the break fluid. Today I was on a time restraint and could only focus on the front brakes. Thank Chris for your videos.

  • Reply Aaron Roberson July 14, 2019 at 3:43 am

    That seemed so easy. Im gonna give it a try

  • Reply eugene yuri July 14, 2019 at 12:32 pm

    U help me so much man thank u for all chrisfix u the best!!!

  • Reply C Chung July 16, 2019 at 3:01 am

    Amazing and concise tutorial!

  • Reply Moriah Ross July 16, 2019 at 2:44 pm

    This was a greeaaaat video! Iโ€™m a 5โ€™2 woman with no experience with cars at all and I feel like I can do this ๐Ÿ’• thank you for your clear instructions

  • Reply Eric Wisner July 16, 2019 at 9:10 pm

    This is by far one of the most useful videos ever posted on YouTube. I used this video as a guide to successfully change out all of the pads and rotors on my 2012 Nissan Altima this past week. The shop quoted me at over $600 to do this for me, I was able to do it for under $300. Now I have new skills, new tools and greater confidence. Thanks for the great videos, Chris!

  • Reply air23evil July 17, 2019 at 12:46 pm

    Is it necessary to change both the rotors and the brake pads at the same time or could I just change the pads? How do you know if the rotors are bad?

  • Reply mariah greene July 17, 2019 at 10:18 pm

    Do you have to do this on each tire?

  • Reply Kevin Poulet July 18, 2019 at 3:28 am

    Can we use hydrogen peroxide to clean the piston strip instead of brake clean?

  • Reply Fried Rice July 19, 2019 at 5:23 pm

    Chris you really like to hammer stuff right :D?

  • Reply Idaho July 19, 2019 at 8:56 pm

    You painted all parts except the caliper. Am I supposed to not paint it. Or did you simply forget it?

  • Reply Danny White July 19, 2019 at 11:13 pm

    Great video. I can see how the break system is setup and how to change the pads and rotors. Thanks Chris. I have learned quite a great deal here.

  • Reply Ray Richmond July 20, 2019 at 5:02 pm

    What if your front breaks are tighter than your rear. Say on a 2011 kia optima

  • Reply K K July 21, 2019 at 2:30 pm

    Using Copper Grease is a sure way to seize up the slider pins โ€“ย When I first started doing this type of thing many years ago, many people were using copper grease forย their entire brakes. โ€œJust use a little less, it wonโ€™t hurtโ€, I was told. It was only after a recurring issue that I told my manager Iโ€™d be using a silicone based grease from now on โ€“ the copper grease had caused the slider pins to seize. The brakes seizing is usually the case when the pins arenโ€™t lubricated properly, but for me this actually ended up making them worse!

    It can have an effect on the ABS sensors โ€“ย Another of the major problems with using copper grease is that is can have a detrimental effect on the ABS sensors. The ABS is the Anti-Lock Brake System, so itโ€™s important that you donโ€™t effect this.

    Galvanic Corrosion โ€“ย Overuse of copper grease can undoubtedly corrode your brakes, though this is unlikely to happen in a brake mechanism itโ€™s still a possibility to avoid.

    It isnโ€™t even a lubricant โ€“ย Copper grease isnโ€™t even a lubricant, so it doesnโ€™t make sense to use it for this need. There are other compounds that work better for this.

    Copper is a good conductor โ€“ย Copper is obviously known for being a good conductor of heat. If your brakes have a lot of rubber โ€“ the o rings and seals โ€“ does it make sense to use copper grease with these other things nearby?

  • Reply Apollopayne July 22, 2019 at 2:36 pm

    Hey thanks for your great videos. I've learned so much from you. I've changed my wife's brake discs and pads, mine, replaced my air filter, fuel filter, coolant clean/change and oil and filter change.

  • Reply ami no July 22, 2019 at 4:17 pm

    I just replaced my front rotors, brake pads and caliper guide pin boots on my 2015 chrysler 300 RWD. I did the pads first. Then noticed some vibration when braking at highway speed on the front right, so I replaced the front rotors. Just the day before i replace the rotors (about a couple weeks ater replacing the pads) I noticed a scraping sound when parking. When replacing the rotors I noticed one of the guide pin boots on the right front tire was torn so I thought that's what was causing the sound. After I replaced the rotors only the vibration when braking went away. The next day I replaced the boots on the right front tire but the scraping sound hasn't gone away. The car brakes really smoothly but the scraping won't go away when going less than 10 mph. Do you have any ideas what this could be?

  • Reply Perry Benitez July 23, 2019 at 12:43 am

    Yo chrisfix, my rear brake pads are worn really uneven. The outer brake pad is worn to the backing plate but the inner brake pad is barely even worn, what do I do to fix this?

  • Reply Luis Hernandez July 23, 2019 at 3:43 am

    Your videos are awesome thanks for all that info ๐Ÿ™‚

  • Reply allRounder July 23, 2019 at 12:56 pm

    Professional ๐Ÿ’ช๐Ÿฝ

  • Reply Nicholas Baker July 24, 2019 at 3:22 pm

    This is a magnificent how to video. Very detailed. Great job. Quick question. Where you used copper antisieze… is it ok to use brake quiet? I bought it many years ago and used it on the backs of pads in the past. Its red colored.

  • Reply Ex Shenanigan July 25, 2019 at 12:54 am

    Can anyone tell me if I should buy copper nickel or aluminum based anti seize? Chris says copper but internet says nickel is better for high temp applications?

  • Reply levi trouwborst July 26, 2019 at 10:51 am

    Thank you for the great movie. It looks very simple after your explanation.

    Can you tell me where i can find the torque I have to put on the bolts for tighten it? I have a Suzuki Swift 1.3 from 2009.

    The lubricants you use I can not buy in here. Can you tell me where i have to look on when I am buying the copper grease, silicone grease and thread locker?

  • Reply Ben Rod98 July 27, 2019 at 12:33 am

    Brake piston compressor? wow I've never heard of that I usually just use a big enough C-clamp works just as good

  • Reply ananias viper :3 July 27, 2019 at 5:47 pm

    With your hands

  • Reply Layarion July 28, 2019 at 2:23 am

    bro, i don't have most these tools…

  • Reply Layarion July 28, 2019 at 2:24 am

    You should get a 4k60fps camera to stick get that extra crisp detail, or just upscale to 4k because you can.

  • Reply Brem July 29, 2019 at 7:57 pm

    I ran over the wheel chock at the end because nobody told me to remove it. ๐Ÿ˜‚

  • Reply M Beaulieu July 29, 2019 at 8:28 pm

    Here is a tip so your rotor will never rust to the hub! Add some of the copper anti-seize to the hub face. I have done my own brakes and brakes on friends cars and have never had a reoccurrence of rotors seizing ti the hub.

  • Reply Joseph Cameron July 30, 2019 at 3:43 am

    Be sure to not let the reservoir get low. I wasted a whole Sunday cause in the last tire I was bleeding I forgot to refill the reservoir and had to start the bleeding all over cause I sucked air into my brake lines. ๐Ÿ™ donโ€™t be like Joseph, be smart.

  • Reply MI.PRETTY vbera July 30, 2019 at 2:53 pm

    Wish me good luck:)

  • Reply Sydney Reagan July 31, 2019 at 5:56 am

    Hey great brake video. I've been using the silver anti seize but now I'm going to have to get some silicone paste. I love it when I learn something and especially why. Thank you. I was wandering as you briefly mentioned it but your rotors didn't have them installed. My rotors have two keeper holes on them with what looks like a round cap screwed onto a threaded shaft in addition to the 5 holes for the lug nuts. How do you deal with these when removing the rotor?

  • Reply Mayer I July 31, 2019 at 9:02 am

    I see you switched to copper Andi seize vs regular, what's the reason? Protects up to a higher friction point?

    Also what do you recommend with a jack stands? How many more tons than the car itself, 4 ton for a 6k curbed weight car?

    Lastly amazing video.
    And do you always flush the brake fluid for every brake job?

  • Reply Andy Banuelos July 31, 2019 at 3:40 pm

    Thanks daddy chris ๐Ÿ˜˜

  • Reply bahrije uka July 31, 2019 at 8:45 pm

    after doing this job i dont have pressure in my brake LOL

  • Reply easyrider020 August 1, 2019 at 4:35 pm

    hey chris thank you for this awesome video i learned alot from you.i had a question week ago i changed my rotos and brakes.but i forgot to spray some brake cleaner on the new rotos.should i be worried?drove already more then 200 miles with them.thank you in advance

  • Reply A_Tune e August 2, 2019 at 7:45 am

    How do you break in the pads after you change them?

  • Reply Heart2HeartBooks August 2, 2019 at 7:05 pm

    Best Tutorial ever! Thanks Chris. Doing my brakes and rotors tomorrow.

  • Reply TheLgxFrn August 2, 2019 at 11:25 pm

    but on some cars the wheel is locked when stopped. if u remove the wheel its gonna turn?

  • Reply Julio reyes August 3, 2019 at 3:31 am

    Very good tutorial my friend.

  • Reply SFM_Bryan August 3, 2019 at 1:37 pm

    You are the man! You teach very well. I just did my breaks yesterday on my 2007 Acura TSX using this video. It went so smooth. I'm using all your videos to do my car stuff. Thanks a lot for your videos.

  • Reply Tuk_Tuk69 August 4, 2019 at 7:48 am

    I love that you have the exact car and year of me, helps me a ton

  • Reply Mass August 4, 2019 at 8:50 am

    One of the best Channels on YouTube,

  • Reply Mass August 4, 2019 at 9:05 am

    How expensive are mechanics in the US?

    Here in the UK you can find an Indy thatโ€™ll charge around ยฃ20 to change brake pads. Labour ( per tyre )

    If itโ€™s disks and pads ( rotor ) price will be 40-ยฃ50 per tyre.

    Total cost around ยฃ160-ยฃ200 for full set in labour. I am willing to try this on my own next time to save a nice Chunk of cash.

  • Reply Mai Lor Vang August 4, 2019 at 1:57 pm

    This video is awsome!!! Easy to understand how to change brake pads and rotors. I'm a woman and will be replacing my own brakes today.

  • Reply Oliver Menos August 6, 2019 at 5:03 am

    Hey Chris, I'm about to change my brakes on an 08 Matrix, I noticed in another video you recommended using Heavy Duty Silicone Spray on the caliper pins but used Thread locker in this one. Which should I use?

  • Reply Eli Eli August 6, 2019 at 10:06 am

    Hey Chris…. What is the part # of the grease you used on the pin guides? Thx

  • Reply Tony Oshlick August 6, 2019 at 4:26 pm

    Why copper based anti seize? Just curious, thanks!

  • Reply Al Woolhouse August 6, 2019 at 4:38 pm

    You are quickly becoming my favourite and universal go-to guru for car fix guidance. Perfect, succinct, clear, no BS. Thank you from England.

  • Reply Gabriel Perry August 6, 2019 at 8:45 pm

    Hey can anyone tell me why copper? I see an aluminum available. is it just for the heat index?

  • Reply RKGSD August 7, 2019 at 8:45 am

    6:01 Looks like a rubber suspension part is completely cracked.

  • Reply uniqueaddress August 7, 2019 at 11:46 pm

    Thank you Chris. You are a superb teacher! Everything about your videos is so well done from organization to concise content to enthusiastic delivery. I wish you continued success!

  • Reply sam rose August 8, 2019 at 12:02 am

    You're the dad I never had. Thanks chirs!

  • Reply TXY T XARD August 8, 2019 at 3:58 am

    Yeah a little bit you sure you didnโ€™t replace them

  • Reply Joshua George August 8, 2019 at 2:04 pm

    Your car will last forever.

  • Reply James Sunix August 8, 2019 at 6:19 pm

    help me understand the "Torque to 25" how do you know when you are at 25? newbie here asking for a friend (cough cough)

  • Reply Tuk_Tuk69 August 9, 2019 at 12:00 am

    6:01 I literally stripped that bolt and I donโ€™t know what to do. Itโ€™s impossible to get off

  • Reply Matthew Brown August 9, 2019 at 3:05 pm

    I need to do my breaks on my 2009 ford taurus x.
    After watching your video i feel confident i could do them on my own.
    Thanks chris.

  • Reply Kweku Mensah August 9, 2019 at 4:57 pm

    This is what youtube was created for

  • Reply Cameron Jerrell August 9, 2019 at 7:41 pm

    stretch?? I would've never guessed

  • Reply Felipe Luna August 9, 2019 at 9:32 pm

    thank you it saves a lot it money..cause mechanics are so expensive for easy jobs….

  • Reply wild fire August 10, 2019 at 3:21 am

    ์˜ค๋ฐ”๋งˆ: "์šฐ์„  ์œ ํ‚ฌ๋ฆฌ์Šค์— ๋Œ€ํ•ด ๊ณ ๋ง™๋‹ค๋Š” ๋ง์„ ์ „ํ•˜๊ณ  ์‹ถ
    ๋‚˜ ๊ตฌ11
    ์˜ค๋ฐ”๋งˆ ์ง€์ง€์ž๋“ค: (์•„์œ )
    ์˜ค๋ฐ”๋งˆ: "์ œ๊ฐ€ ๋งํ•˜๊ณ  ์‹ถ์€๊ฒƒ์€ ๊ทธ๊ฐ€ ์–‘๋ง(socks)[z๊ธฐ ์ƒ‰
    ๊น”์„ ๋ฐ”๊ฟ”์•ผ ํ•œ๋‹ค๊ณ  ๋งํ•˜๋Š” ๊ฒ๋‹ˆ๋‹ค."
    ์˜ค๋ฐ”๋งˆ ์ง€์ง€์ž๋“ค: (์›ƒ์Œ)
    ์˜ค๋ฐ”๋งˆ: "์—ฌ๊ธฐ์„œ ์•ผ์œ ๋ฅผ ๋ฐ›์„์ง€ ๋ชฐ๋ž๋„ค์š”. ์•ผ๊ตฌ ์–˜๊ธฐ๋ฅผ
    ๊บผ๋‚ด์ง€ ๋ง์•˜์–ด์•ผ ํ–ˆ์–ด์š”. ์ดํ•ดํ•ฉ๋‹ˆ๋‹ค. ์ œ ์‹ค์ˆ˜์ž…๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.
    (์ด๊ณณ์— ์žˆ๋Š”) ์ฒญ์ค‘๋“ค์ด ์–ด๋–ค ์‚ฌ๋žŒ๋“ค์ธ์ง€๋ฅผ ์•Œ์•˜์–ด์•„ ํ–ˆ

  • Reply Ebenezer Herrera August 10, 2019 at 3:49 am

    Thanks Chris! Done mine with ease!

  • Reply epulrocks August 10, 2019 at 11:29 am

    Hi Chris! I cannot find any Silicone Paste in stores near me. But i could only find Silicone Lubricant. Its written to work on rubber. Could this be used for the caliper guide pins?

  • Reply CoSm1c gAm3r August 10, 2019 at 1:51 pm

    Brake rotor in this case look ok why to change them?

  • Reply Mike McCue August 11, 2019 at 12:40 am

    Did the brakes today on a traverse with a friend. Your video gave me the confidence to try and saved me $800. Thanks

  • Reply HoNrE tHeR gRoN oNgOn DoNt FoRgEtY jAmS tHa ReD August 11, 2019 at 2:32 am

    Owners manual jack the car up from the side

    Cris fix jacks the car from the front

    Owners manual am I a joke to you

  • Reply HoNrE tHeR gRoN oNgOn DoNt FoRgEtY jAmS tHa ReD August 11, 2019 at 2:38 am

    I wish you painted the caliper and bracket red

  • Reply Sterling Hearth August 11, 2019 at 4:00 am

    You forgot to paint the caliper!

  • Reply michael martin August 12, 2019 at 3:45 am

    Do you still have to bleed the brakes or you wont need to

  • Reply Derek Baxter August 12, 2019 at 6:16 pm

    Hey Chris! What torque wrench do you have? I have looked and can't seem anything higher than 150ft-lbs? Thanks!

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